Thursday, September 27, 2012

Fashion funds film outreach as Belcourt’s nD Festival reels and rocks

Fashion funds film outreach as Belcourt’s nD Festival reels and rocks


While our fashion community works to show the rest of the world what Nashville really looks like these day, the creative minds behind The Belcourt's nD Festival remind us that Nashville style has never been in short supply.

For this weekend's nD Festival, running Friday through Sunday in Hillsboro Village, The Belcourt chose four decades — the '40s, '60s, '80s and present day — to showcase Music City's timeless look and stylistic flair over the years. "We knew we wanted to do Nashville 'street style,' but we had no interest in just mirroring what an outsider might imagine would be Nashville street style," explains Cindy Wall, The Belcourt's marketing and development director.

"We thought the decades would help frame that — not in the sense of costumes from these decades, but inspiration from styles and sensibilities across time," Wall explains. "And it's also a subtle way to honor The Belcourt. The clothes that our audiences wear today were inspired by like-minded film-loving Nashvillians who sat in the same theater decades ago."

But fashion is just one piece of the nD Festival. The event, a fundraiser to support The Belcourt's educational and community engagement programs, is a celebration of independent film, fashion and music. Now in its third year, the fest directly funds the outreach work that The Belcourt does throughout the city, and it's made Belcourt education and engagement coordinator Allison Inman's job possible.

Inman oversees an outreach program that focuses on encouraging visual literacy in the city's youth. "Because field trips are special occasions for students, I bring a mobile theater to them year-round," explains Inman. This summer, Inman showed animated, experimental and documentary short films to students from kindergarten to seventh grade at East Nashville's Martha O'Bryan Center.

"We keep getting more requests from after-school programs and schools, which is exciting!" Inman says. "I'm so happy the desire is there, but we still have to manage the demand with the resources. I hope to branch out into other parts of the community and to keep those school buses lined up at the theater."

The event's honorary co-chairs, Imogene + Willie's Matt and Carrie Eddmenson, are drawn to the educational program the nD Fest funds. "We'd like to do whatever we can to further The Belcourt's platform and vision," says Carrie Eddmenson. "We believe that this event is right on target."

Eddmenson also sees the festival as an opportunity to encourage the fashion community's continued growth, drawing upon the resources of our creative community. "What makes the evolution of this fashion community so beautiful is the camaraderie of artists from film, fashion and music," she says. "These three genres, in their rawest form and drawing from each other, are redefining Nashville fashion. We don't have to try to be something that we are not."

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Local designers swoop on fashion festival

Local designers swoop on fashion festival

This year, One Fell Swoop - a relatively unknown West Australian label - kicked off the show, hot on the heels of winning plaudits in Singapore.

One of the label's co-designers, Nina Ergic, says the amount of recognition they've received is overwhelming.

"We haven't had this much press, awareness or exposure in general - forever," she said.

Part of that exposure is thanks to international socialites like Marie Choo, a freelance writer for fashion powerhouse, Nylon magazine.

Ms Choo says after showing in Singapore earlier this year, One Fell Swoop hit the catwalk running.

"Singapore is the gateway to Asia for fashion, so by showing in Singapore I think more people are aware of the brand so when I write about it, or go back, more people are aware of the brand."

The festival's director, Mariella Harvey-Hanrahan, agrees.

"We took them to Singapore, and everybody loved them, they loved the aesthetic," she said.

"I think it's opened a lot of avenues; they were written up by many national magazines and international magazines."

Local designers are a big focus this year, an unusual move for a small fashion festival which would usually rely on well-known names as a drawcard.

Organisers say it is a sign of the greater prominence Perth designers have gained.

A prominence One Fell Swoop is hoping to cash in on.

"It goes hand in hand, whether you first have media awareness internationally, nationally or locally, it all helps itself, it kind of follows through," Ms Ergic says.

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Philadelphia's own Fashion Week catching hold

Philadelphia's own Fashion Week catching hold


Fashionably speaking, Philadelphia is where it's at this week. As New York Fashion Week ended, top fashion editors came to town, celebrity stylists have popped in, and designers are debuting their spring collections here.
Organizers of the Philadelphia Collection: Own It, the city-sponsored fashion extravaganza featuring runway shows, industry seminars, and, of course, cocktails, must be pleased.

After years of trying to get the attention of people in the fashion know to open stylish businesses here, the industry's elite are finally starting to take notice.

Highlights of this year's Philadelphia Collection include visits from Essence beauty editor Mikki Taylor and couture women's wear designer B Michael.

On Thursday, the celebrity stylist Carson Kressley of Queer Eye fame will attend a Philadelphia Collection party.

The week left an impression on editors from Big Apple fashion mags Harper's Bazaar, Zinc, Ebony, and Lucky as well as five fashion writers from the United Kingdom, who got a taste of Philadelphia's premier shopping and fashion events.

"There is a wide array of amazing fashion talent in Philadelphia," said Lisa Luna, an editor at Harper's Bazaar. "I will definitely put this event on my calendar and come back on the weekends to do much-needed shopping."

"I heard that Philadelphia shopping was good," agreed Bobby Schuessler, contributing editor at Lucky magazine, "but I had no idea it was this good." Schuessler bought a striped sweater from Kembrel and also raved about Boyds, Joan Shepp, and Town Home.

"I could spend all day browsing the expertly curated boutiques on North Third Street," Schuessler added.

The Philadelphia Collection has proved to be more than just a way for the city to raise its fashion credibility. The organization, led by Michelle Shannon of the Center City District and Melanie Johnson of the mayor's office, have united a once-disparate and racially segregated fashion community, galvanizing it under one stylish umbrella.

On Wednesday night, the city's 19-year-old runway fete, Phasion Phest, will take over the Shops of Liberty Place. Rittenhouse Row retailers will hold their annual cocktail party and runway show at the Comcast Center.

On Thursday, FBH the Agency, founded by young African American businessmen Kerry Scott and Kevin Parker, will kick off its weekend of Philadelphia Fashion Week runway shows with a black-tie affair at Commerce Square. More than a dozen designers will be showing their spring 2013 collections.

The Philadelphia Collection has helped the city finally create the much-needed fashion synergy among retailers, shoppers, designers, and design schools, including longtime textile giant Philadelphia University and newcomer Immaculata.

The collection has evolved simultaneously with fashion. The industry still revolves around fall and spring runway shows in New York, London, Paris, and Milan, but the clothing looks and feels as if it can be worn in every season.

The biggest change is that fashion, like food, is becoming more locally driven. Emerging designers are coming together in their home towns - like Philadelphia - to create co-ops to sell their wares. Many are trying to work together to find opportunities to manufacture clothing locally, as overseas sewing isn't just getting more expensive, but also is linked to high unemployment rates and is becoming viewed as un-American.

The Philadelphia Collection is helping create a smaller stage - one outside of New York, but just as important. It's especially crucial for emerging labels like Bela Shehu's Nino Brand and Nicole Haddad's Lobo Mau, which are getting picked up in boutiques here and in other cities.

The New York-based designer Ouigi Theodore, creative director of Brooklyn Circus, debuted his spring 2013 menswear line here last week, the day after New York Fashion Week ended. That's a big deal in a style world that thrives on being New York-centric.

"Philly has really helped us get our name out there," Theodore said. "We hope to come back every year and introduce our collection here in Philadelphia."

The Philadelphia Collection was created three years ago as part of a plan to persuade high-end retailers who want to move to the region to choose Center City over, say, King of Prussia. The first year, there were just 50 events. This year, that number has doubled. The majority of the events are free and open to the public.

This year, about $90,000 was spent on marketing, advertising, and other expenses. About $50,000 was raised in kind from a dozen sponsors.

Philadelphia hasn't won all the bids - Top Shop, a popular British shopping haunt and fave of Kate Middleton, opened a small boutique at the King of Prussia Nordstrom - but Center City's fashion wins are starting to add up.

In the spring, Philadelphia was named by Forbes as one of the best U.S. cities to shop. In January, Lucky named Philadelphia No. 14 among its 25 best cities for shopping.

More evidence of Philadelphia's rise is the new retail in the Rittenhouse Square area.

On Tuesday, Anne Klein opened a flagship store on Walnut Street. And Wednesday, specialty lingerie boutique Hope Chest will host a soft opening on Chestnut Street.

On Friday, contemporary designer haunt Intermix will open at 18th and Chestnut in the old Knit Wit space. There are also rumblings that Uniqlo, the preppier Japanese H&M, will be coming, too.

Said Stefani Greenfield, chief creative officer of New York-based Anne Klein: "The city is increasingly emerging as a great lifestyle destination."

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Burberry dazzles London Fashion Week despite gloomy outlook

Burberry dazzles London Fashion Week despite gloomy outlook


 Luxury British label Burberry dazzled a star-studded crowd with colourful metalics, corsets and capes at the most anticipated show of London Fashion Week -- despite a gloomy profit warning.

Set in Kensington Gardens, the huge greenhouse-like tent which housed the show led by Christopher Bailey was plunged into darkness.

A backdrop showed Burberry's new flagship store lit up against silhouettes of iconic London buildings and monuments -- Big Ben, St Paul's Cathedral and Nelson's Column. Models rolled out Burberry's latest spring-summer collection on Monday under the expectant gaze of burlesque style icon Dita von Teese, American Vogue editor Anna Wintour, tennis star Andy Murray and actor Dev Patel.

First up is a long white cloak. Next, tailored jackets worn over swimsuits in pleated satin, followed by dresses and tops with fitted corsets. A cropped cape covering the shoulders often completes the look, setting off a feather dress in midnight blue or purple hotpants. Burberry's colour palette for the season ranges from dusky pinks and flesh colours, suggestive of lingerie, to green lace dresses and trench coats in red and fuschia.

The clothes take on an increasingly aluminium hue, until a grand finale of rainbow-coloured metallic raincoats.

"It was an explosion of colour, it was really surprising," enthused British fashion editor Hilary Alexander who said she was "electrified" by the show.

The event overshadowed the group's warning last week that it was expecting full-year profits to be at the lower end of market expectations after sales slowed in the second quarter.

The announcement by Burberry, which obtains 37 percent of its revenue from Asia, sent its shares tumbling and created shock waves among other global players in the sector amid fears of a Chinese slowdown.

The show also comes not long after the opening of the biggest of Burberry's 200 boutiques around the world, on London's busy Regent Street.

The flagship store stretches across 2,500m2 of trading space spread over four floors in a building dating back to 1820, restored by creative director Bailey. The grandiose London shop, with its ornate ceilings and marble and oak floors, recalls the heritage of a brand formed in 1856, highlighted by vintage pieces such as a beige leather ladies coat from 1912, or a 1934 tweed overcoat.

But it turns also to the latest technologies, notably allowing customers to see items of clothing on screens from every angle.

Day four of London Fashion Week also featured a show by duo Peter Pilotto, who remained faithful to ther creed of colourful, computer-generated prints.

On a podium covered in geometric patterns, under a neon light, black silhouettes exploded into a vibrant spectrum of cobalt blue, scarlet red, and fluorescent yellow.

And just as colours were splashed together, so too were materials: netting juxtaposed with silk, sometimes covered with beading or mirror fragments. Some designs evoked the Op-art of French Hungarian Victor Vasarely, others took on an African theme.

London Fashion week draws to a close Tuesday, when Mulberry -- another star brand in Asia -- takes centre stage.

Monday, September 17, 2012

Fashion wind blows against 'idiots'

Fashion wind blows against 'idiots'


In the grandiose setting of Britain's Foreign Office the flamboyant redhead took to the catwalk on Sunday as a climate change campaigner, sporting a moustache and a black circle painted round her eye.

Wearing a sequined hat and wrapped in a banner proclaiming "climate revolution", the 71-year-old unfurled herself to reveal a T-shirt bearing the same message and pink striped shorts with tights pulled over them.

The eccentric designer also had something to say about the row over topless photos of Prince William's wife Catherine, published last week in French magazine Closer.

She said: "They have to protect their privacy somehow because if they don't do it now, then it's a total free-for-all.

"They probably don't care at all really. Once I got an OBE and I didn't have any knickers, and the Queen loved it."

By comparison, the spring-summer collection of Westwood's second line, Red Label, seemed almost sensible.

Drawing from diverse styles, models' faces were made up like Andy Warhol prints, while judges' wigs alternated with 1950s-inspired hairstyles.

Straw boater hats and feminine twinsets in pastel colours formed part of a "royal gardens" theme while monochrome cocktail dresses and jumpsuits made for an edgier evening wear range.

"Before we've had class war, we've had rich against poor," she said. "Do you know what the division is now? It's idiots against eco-warriors. That's it." Westwood then took up the mantle of climate change champion.

Meanwhile the atmosphere was calmer at Nicole Farhi's show on Sunday, which featured a mineral-toned collection inspired by the marble quarries of Carrara in northern Italy.

In the art deco setting of the Royal institute of British Architects, watched by influential American Vogue editor Anna Wintour, the French designer expressed her passion for sculpture with elegant dresses structured by angular hips or origami-like folds.

With a palette dominated by white, Farhi's collection explores the subtle nuances of the Siena landscape, from ivory to pale yellow and pearl grey.

Her fabrics, often rigid as paper, are silky and transparent for a blouse or sleeveless top, while shiny and fluid for a trench coat. A sprinkling of shimmering crystals evokes the sheen of marble and sets off the simplicity of the lines.

Among other shows on Sunday, Temperley London struck a resounding 1950s chord with their retro silhouettes, dominated by pale blue shades and full, flirty skirts made of organza and satin. These were accessorised with sunglasses or a straw hat, sometimes livened up with a veil resembling a mosquito net.

British designer Alice Temperley said she liked to create a "timeless" mixture of different influences but had in mind images of models from the fifties or a young Sophia Loren.

Saturday, September 15, 2012

London Fashion Week opens with tribal themes

London Fashion Week opens with tribal themes


Designers turned to nature for inspiration on the opening day of London Fashion Week on Friday, showcasing a collection of sheer silk dresses, delicate embroidery and elegant show pieces all featuring a floral-inspired theme.
Britain’s capital took over the baton from New York, which wrapped up its week with sparkly dresses and bold geometric prints, with a pared-down colour palette of fresh pastels and faded dip-dyes.
Designers Antoni & Alison opened the day with a series of quirky silk printed dresses, followed by Fyodor Golan, whose show was in the grandiose lounge of the Waldorf Hilton and inspired by Mayan and Aztec cultures.
Models floated down the steps in shift dresses, loose kaftans and bold show pieces varying in electric blue, canary yellow, autumnal amber, and bright pink hues, with intricate beading embroidery and tribal-inspired prints and cutouts.
“We wanted to show lightness and spirituality and at the same time to have that sexuality there. So it’s that contrast but it’s not in your face, it’s still strong and gives you power but it’s very emotional, something that will engage you,” Designer Fyodor Podgorny said after the show.
Podgorny along with his partner Golan Frydman has consistently impressed critics since their debut collection two years ago.
The duo kept their look neutral, with slicked back ponytails and bare faces on models offset by delicate painted tribal tattoos and intricate facial jewellery covering eyes and noses.
Veteran fashion journalist Hilary Alexander said she was impressed by the attention to detail and vibrant colours.
“It’s not for everybody, a woman who’s a minimalist would probably throw up her hands in horror but I happen to love them,” Alexander said.
Designer Corrie Nielsen told Reuters that her collection, entitled Florilegium, was inspired by the Royal Botanic gardens in London and Japanese artist Makoto Murayama.
“Everything has been cut three-dimensionally and shaped, inspired from the flower,” Nielsen said.
The collection also featured sleek tailored pieces alongside dip-dyed silk blouses and origami-folded jackets in pale yellows, pinks and creams.
Sheer dresses embellished with embroidered applique details in icy blues, mint greens and lilacs were seen at Bora Aksu.
Models were adorned with cut-out felt crowns, sporting braids and back-combed hair, wearing light printed and embroidered gowns inspired by art deco and botanical gardens.
“I just wanted to create something that was really light,” Aksu said.
“There’s texture on it but it’s very light, there’s prints and embroideries and stuff but it’s almost like a light layer, so nothing is really heavy. I wanted to make it like air.”
Romantic florals and pastels defined the opening day of London Fashion Week, but Felder Felder added an edgy twist to their spring collection, teaming bold hues and muted leopard prints with floaty fabrics and shortening hemlines of shredded knitwear dresses.
Singer Kate Nash, dressed in a black suede dress and leather jacket, serenaded the crowd as models accessorised with aviator sunglasses and beach hair strutted down the runway in miniscule shorts, dresses with high slits and suits paired with midriff-baring tops.
Models swanned through the intimate presentation room in feminine tailored dresses made from light fabrics with prints and woven textures, in an array of pastel hues, at Emilia Wickstead’s presentation.
The designer said her new collection a twist on Truman Capote’s ‘swans’ and inspired high society dames from the late 1950s who were required to look chic and elegant at social events.
“I wanted it to be uplifting, fashion forward and really play on my inspirations a lot,” Wickstead said.
“I loved the matador shorts so I played a lot on that, I thought that was quite fresh, keeping summer fun and flirty but at the end of the day, my style is quite sophisticated and neat, so I wanted to make it more playful.”
Wickstead, who is six months pregnant, was one of the designers to benefit from the “Kate effect” after the Duchess of Cambridge stepped out in some of her designs.
Wickstead said she wasn’t able to comment on her royal client, but did say it was “inspiring” to dress “anyone who is sophisticated and high profile and of a lovely nature and a great look.”
Middleton isn’t the only high-profile client to favour Wickstead’s chic designs. “Downton Abbey” actress Laura Carmichael, who wore a dress by Wickstead at New York’s prestigious Met Ball Gala earlier this year, praised the designer’s latest collection.
“She’s got such a talent for doing completely classic, simple things and managing to be very dramatic and sexy with it in the most classy way,” Carmichael said.

Friday, September 14, 2012

Katie Holmes is newest Fashion Week design star

Katie Holmes is newest Fashion Week design star


- Katie Holmes, greeting well-wishers in a black leather blazer and gold beaded heels, became the latest celebrity to take a serious stab at fashion with her Holmes & Yang preview at New York Fashion Week on Wednesday.

The celebrities who once lined the front rows of these seasonal previews in party dresses have increasingly made their way backstage into positions of power.

Celebrity names are commonplace on mass-market brands: The Kardashian sisters, Venus Williams, Jennifer Lopez, Jessica Simpson, Avril Lavigne, Daisy Fuentes, Heidi Klum and reality stars Whitney Port and Lauren Conrad each have department-store brands.

But a handful have also become serious fashion forces. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen are among the most imitated -- or sincerely flattered -- U.S. designers for their brand The Row, and this year were named top womenswear designers by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Victoria Beckham's previews are among the week's most hotly anticipated, and paparazzi-free.

Gwen Stefani, Nicole Richie and celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe have also pulled away from the pack.

"The lines that are successful are very authentic," said Susan Kaufman, editor in chief of People StyleWatch. "The key is the celebrity being involved, being involved in the look and the concept, and to be proud to wear the clothes."

On that measure, Holmes seems ready to join the elite club. Showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week seems a major commitment to the brand and Holmes's future in fashion. "It was very clean but with a cool factor," Kaufman said. "I can easily see her [Holmes] wearing it."

MICHAEL KORS

Michael Kors's sunny disposition found a home in Southern California for the upcoming spring fashion season. He turned out an optimistic, cheerful and modernist collection that he said was inspired by the architecture, attitude and mostly the weather he enjoys every time he makes a trip to the West Coast.

"You could be sitting at the Beverly Hills Hotel, by the pool, and you could find this entire palette whether it's the palm green, the turquoise of the pool, the yellow of the sky -- of the sun," he said in a backstage interview. "And I love all the architecture that we see whenever I go out to California. ... You're seeing a lot of that kind of geometry play into the collection here."

Stripes were strong, and he opened the show with a female model in a red-and-navy striped bodysuit with a zip-front navy skirt with a crisp white belt, while her male runway companion had on a green-and-navy striped pullover and striped pants.

On later outfits Kors played with the proportion of the stripes, mixing thick and thin, and even horizontal and vertical.

Kors said he purposely included bright colors and fun details on clothes that, while technically for spring, get shipped in February.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

Latex and leather: That's what keeps Oscar de la Renta modern while maintaining his position as the godfather of uptown style.

On his runway Tuesday evening, de la Renta equally paid homage to the decorative and frothy styles that have been his hallmark for more than four decades as well as the new technologies that keep fashion ahead of the pop culture curve.

One of the most remarkable looks was a two-piece dress made of ivory silk faille and with a feminine peplum around the hips that also featured a top layer of a latex flower appliques that could have been the icing on the most delicious cake.

Leather has been a staple of this round of previews for editors, stylists and retailers, but de la Renta took the risk with latex, which actually seemed even lighter and more supple than the buttery leathers the crowd has seen.

De la Renta's outfits certainly courted the crowd of socialites, celebrities and power brokers that typically favor his label. Not many others can justify a super special-occasion, shocking-pink embroidered gown that boasted turquoise tassel embroidery, resin flowers, pave crystals and jeweled neckline.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA CHILDRENSWEAR

Like a proud grandfather, de la Renta beamed Wednesday as bite-size models showed off his first full children's collection for spring, a garden party of floral and lace party dresses for girls and classic layered looks for boys.

One lucky little model hitched a ride in a wagon painted in a blue petal design to complement her red dress in the same print. Two boys toted skateboards for their strut down the runway and two others glided on scooters.

Some had their end-of-runway pause before the cameras down like the bigger pros -- and all wore huge smiles.

De la Renta launched a small collection of kidswear for spring of this year. Generally, de la Renta children's party dresses last season didn't exceed $350 -- far from the priciest of the high-end designers entering the lucrative toddler-with-bucks market.

BETSEY JOHNSON

Betsey Johnson threw herself a big, crazy 70th birthday party with pal Cyndi Lauper belting "Girls Just Wanna Have Fun" and confetti-slinging models prancing decade-by-decade down a runway in her wild clothes, including one clutching a not-happy-looking baby pig.

Johnson's grown daughter Lulu popped out of a huge faux birthday cake on stage and watched with her two young kids as grandma performed her signature cartwheel and splits.

If anybody deserves a night out, it's the flamboyant Johnson, a breast cancer survivor who lost control of her signature boutiques earlier this year. All 63 of them in the U.S., Canada and the U.K. held going-out-of-business sales after Betsey Johnson LLC filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in April.

The brand will continue on a wholesale basis and online, with moderately priced clothing sold in department stores, along with accessories and other licenses.

So why not celebrate? Huge video displays offered glimpses of her rock roots in the swinging '60s, as models held up glitter-lettered signs marking the decades, culminating in new clothes for spring with a princess theme, twirling and shimmying before a bra-clad parade in skimpy sparkle bottoms spelled out "cheers" in letters on their backsides.

Johnson's actual birthday is Aug. 10, 1942, but who's counting.

HOLMES & YANG

Holmes might have just tipped off the paparazzi on how to find her: They should look for a woman a camel-colored suede capelet with red shorts, or, if it's later in the day, maybe a strapless jumpsuit with beaded fringe running down the side.

Holmes and her design partner and longtime stylist, Jeanne Yang, attended the preview wearing black leather blazers and black stretch pants.

There wasn't a runway, just 14 models on pedestals. One wore a black leather lingerie-style camisole with an olive silk button-front maxi skirt, and another had on a black lace slouchy blazer with black lace short -- an outfit right on trend with what tastemakers have been seeing this round of previews.

Many of the outfits hit on the menswear silhouettes and luxury fabrics Holmes favors.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

From the triangular cleavage cutouts to the plunging V-necklines, designer Narciso Rodriguez made his point with pointed shapes.

"It's a very graphic collection. It's kind of a signature at this point after so many years: the splicing, the color, especially black and white," said Rodriguez before his show, which was held Tuesday off-site from the Lincoln Center tents.

But while the designer known for modern and architectural silhouettes showed a handful of black and white looks, color dominated the minimalist collection with blood-orange sheath dresses, a loose-fitting fuchsia blazer and silky tops with intricate, emerald embroidery.

The easy-breezy collection ended with a stream of silky soft, paper thin, slip dresses colorblocked with geometric shades of pink.

Before the show Rodriguez explained how the mood backstage matched the vibe coming down the runway: "Some seasons are more stressful than others. This one is a very happy, mellow, nice feeling."

JENNY PACKHAM

British restraint? Not here.

The Jenny Packham catwalk was a parade of one glitzy, glamorous look after another, and she wasn't one to shy away from a single -- or thousands of -- beads, sequins and sparkles.

Packham wouldn't be doing justice to 1960s Las Vegas without them, right?

London-based Packham said in her notes that she took a long look at Lauren Bacall, Shirley MacLaine and Angie Dickinson, aka "The Rat Pack Mascots," as inspiration. If these muses were to swing open the closet doors in spring 2013, they would find Packham's checkerboard-beaded gown, a swinging trapeze-beaded mini and the ultimate hostess dress, an orange T-shirt gown with embellished long-sleeve cuffs.

There was a bit of repetitiveness in the collection, but that's the life that this woman lives: party after party.

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

Marc Jacobs threw a hipster picnic Tuesday with a mashup of neon checks, plaids and stripes -- large, small, wide, narrow -- loaded into outfits as many as five at a time for his more moderately priced Marc by Marc Jacobs line.

Other looks for men and women were less busy. There was an edgy chic to a roomy ladies' button coat in off-white with embroidered silver dots, and another in solid bright pink with large pockets, vents and heather gray sleeves with matching pink trim at the cuffs.

Another button coat was more fitted, in a fuchsia pattern of smaller dots against dark blue.

But the line's spring show shouted bold, fun prints in bright orange, pink, purple and red.

J. CREW

J. Crew is sending its customer packing. The retailer presented a collection of upcoming styles on Tuesday that picked up influences from vacation spots around the world.

It was only natural to tap into the retailer's growing international presence, explained Tom Mora, women's vice president of design, in a pre-show interview. "I always have her [the J. Crew customer] in my head, and she travels with me. I'm mostly taking her to warm places."

One print on a pajama-top dress featured the image of a hotel and its pool -- probably Miami in the 1950s. And there was pink, lots of it.

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Fashion Week combines worlds of fashion and technology

Fashion Week combines worlds of fashion and technology


Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week gathers the top designers from the fashion world to display their works of art. Every season, designers push the limits of fashion to break the mold.

This season, fashion has finally met technology. Google and Diane von Furstenberg have united to integrate the world of technology into the world of fashion.

This past Sunday, models strutted down the catwalk with bold colors and Glass by Google in Furstenberg’s 2013 spring fashion show.

“The spring 2013 collection played the part with its asymmetrical cuts, platform shoes, and metallic colors to introduce this new ‘revolutionary technology,’” said DVF Sales Specialist, Alejandra Sanchez.
Glass by Google are sleek, futuristic-like glasses capable of operating like a smartphone.
“The technology adds a digital layer to what the wearer sees by enabling Internet, an Android operating system, motion sensors, GPS and a camera,” reported Hannah Elliot. “If you buy a pair of these ultralights you can update your Twitter feed, send emails and text without the inconvenience of a handheld iPhone.”

Each Google Glass has been predicted to start off at $1,500. Google co-founder Sergey Brin and Furstenberg were both flaunting the new device on Sunday throughout the day.

The footage taken during Fashion Week from the Google Glasses will be available to the public Sept. 13 titled “DVF through Glass” on the DVF Google+ page and Google’s YouTube channel.

In an official press release, Furstenberg said, “I am so excited to introduce Glass to the fashion world and use this revolutionary technology to give everyone a unique perspective into fashion.”

Furstenberg is best known for her creation of the wrap dress, which has been said to ‘symbolize power and independence for an entire generation of women.’

Furstenberg’s creation landed her on the cover of Newsweek and The Wall Street Journal in the 70s.

“She does not gear towards a specific figure. She creates clothes that fit all shapes and sizes,” said Sanchez. “Her clothes make women feel good and confident. I see it whenever a woman tries on a wrap dress.”

Her brand embodies the essence of powerful women everywhere, which I believe is a challenge in the fashion industry.

She incorporates signature prints and bold colors in her designs paralleling the confidence she exudes and the life she exceeds. In 2005, she was awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award given by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA).

The following year, she was elected president of the council.

She also sits on the board of Vital Voices, a non-government organization that supports female leaders and entrepreneurs around the world.

Through her foundation, Diller-von Furstenberg Family Foundation, she created the DVF Awards to “honor and provide grants to women who have displayed leadership, strength and courage in their commitment to their causes.” Forbes Magazine dubbed her the most powerful woman in fashion this year.

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Fashion Feeding Frenzy for Farm Stand Apples and Doughnuts at EDUN’s Runway Show

Fashion Feeding Frenzy for Farm Stand Apples and Doughnuts at EDUN’s Runway Show


It’s not every day that you discover a makeshift organic fruit and cider farmer’s market stand outside a fashion show. But that’s precisely what had been constructed outside Skylight at Moynihan Station at EDUN’s spring 2013 runway presentation this past Saturday afternoon. Breezy Hill Orchards of Staatsburg, New York was stocked with the dozens of varietals of pears and apples freshly picked. Before the show, sweaty fashion editors, stylists and buyers could take a refreshing sip of apple cider. It was a smart pairing considering that Edun, which was founded by Ali Hewson and U2’s Bono, works with African manufacturers to give them an economic boost. Naturally the majority of attendees beelined it to their seats, but The Observer gulped down a bottle before the show.

Seating was a bit frenzied and the arrival of songstress Alicia Keys didn’t help, but eventually we took in the Mali and safari-chic theme of Edun creative director Sharon Wauchob’s collection, with etched florals, mud-dyed cotton and silk and military accents.

“At Edun we believe that real style has substance. We founded the company to bring trade to Africa,” explained Ms. Hewson. “This season we are proud to say we are on track to reach our goal of producing 40 percent of the collection in Africa.”

Commerce-for-developing-nations-mission accomplished.

“We loved the idea of working with an organic farmer’s market stand. We wanted to do it last season, but the weather was so harsh the day of our show!” Ms. Hewson told The Observer afterward.

“September is the perfect time to enjoy the fruits of our surrounding farming community and of course, in EDUN, apples are close to our hearts.”

To The Observer’s chagrin, once it became apparent that everything at the farm stand was gratis, the crowd dove like hawks attacking prey. Grabbing bags of apples and even scarfing down homemade doughnuts. It’s a rare sighting to behold the fashion frenzy nibble even raw almonds or a Fiber One bar, but doughnuts? Impressive!

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Luxury fashion house Burberry in sales warning

Luxury fashion house Burberry in sales warning


The rampant growth at Burberry showed signs of wavering today as the luxury fashion house warned its profits would be at the bottom end of expectations.

The group, which has 196 retail stores, 207 concessions, 48 outlet shops and 58 franchise stores worldwide, said like-for-like sales ground to a halt in the 10 weeks to September 8 and have started to fall over recent weeks. Total sales including new space were up 6%.

The luxury goods firm, famous for its red, black and camel check, warned adjusted pre-tax profits for the year to March 31 will be around the lower end of market expectations.

Burberry, which was founded in 1856, spent much of the year bucking the gloomy trend in the wider retail sector due to its exposure to robust emerging markets, especially China.

Burberry chief executive Angela Ahrendts warned the external environment was "becoming more challenging".

She added: "Given this background, we are tightly managing discretionary costs and taking appropriate actions to protect short term profitability."

The flat like-for-like sales in the second quarter so far are a sharp slowdown from the 6% hike reported for the first quarter to June 30.

Burberry reported a 24% surge in annual profits to £366 million in its last financial year, while total revenues were also up 24% to £1.9 billion as key Asian markets showed more strong growth and flagship stores in London and Paris performed well.

Burberry previously announced plans to add a further 12% to 14% of selling space in this financial year but did not give details of store openings in today's update.

The group has been focusing on larger format stores, such as its relocated site in London's Regent Street.

It is due to issue another trading update on October 11 before its interim results for the six months to September 30 on November 7.

Monday, September 10, 2012

Style mavens flock to Fashion's Night Out

Style mavens flock to Fashion's Night Out


The stores that line New York City's Fifth Avenue are filled with mannequins that come to life, DJs huddled over mixing boards and waiters lofting trays of free-flowing Champagne -- a scene lit by blinding flashbulbs.
Women pair their Sunday best with heels that would make a podiatrist cringe, as they strut by, ogling the latest handbag collections. For men, it's all about the pocket squares, bow ties and smoking loafers.
Fashion's Night Out, which took place last night in New York and across the world, is not for the self-conscious. The streets run rampant with stylish people taking pictures of stylish people taking pictures. Everyone is looking at everyone else -- Tweeting, Facebooking and Instagramming their favorite looks of the night. One can judge the success of their ensemble by the number of times they're asked for a photograph.
While that might sound a bit pretentious, and just about as fun as, say, a sewing needle injury, Fashion's Night Out started for a more practical reason: To help the struggling U.S. clothing industry in an era of economic uncertainty.
The trademarked event started four years ago, when retail sales were anything but vibrant. By December 2009, retail sales had fallen for six straight months.
The #NYFW diet: Part of the job?
"In 2009, in-store traffic was incredibly low, affecting sales and threatening jobs. It was clear that something needed to happen to get people comfortable with shopping again and to remind them that their purchases were helping to support the economy and the lives of those around them that worked in fashion," said Susan Portnoy, vice president of media relations at Condé Nast. Condé Nast is the parent company of heavy-hitting fashion publications like Women's Wear Daily, Vogue and GQ.
"We feel that Fashion's Night Out helped to jump-start that thinking then, and each year it serves as a reminder," she said.
Vogue, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, NYC & Company (New York City's official tourism organization) and the City of New York decided to team up to "restore consumer confidence" and "boost the industry's economy during the recession" with a one-night celebration of style, but more importantly, commerce.
They brought in celebrity meet-and-greets, DJs, free drinks, swag bags and limited-edition, Fashion's-Night-Out branded merchandise. Forty percent of the proceeds from branded products benefit the New York City AIDS Fund in the NY Community Trust.
Since 2009, Fashion's Night Out has expanded to 19 countries and more than 500 cities in the U.S.
"In addition to the retailers, this event gives a boost to hotels and restaurants, public transportation and dozens of other industries. In the end, we feel local economies on many different levels benefit," said Portnoy.
Yuriko Ogura, 22, is visiting from Osaka, Japan, for the event as well as Fashion Week.
Ogura, standing out in Rockefeller Center with a bright yellow blazer and black cloche hat, said the event's appeal lies in its accessibility: It's an opportunity for the general public to connect with the seemingly intimidating fashion community on a more personal level.
As Katerina Kriticos, a 24-year-old recent graduate from the Fashion Institute of Technology, strolls into the Ted Baker store on Fifth Avenue, she's clearly in her element. The shop is modeled after a London townhouse in the 1920s, and merry women dressed in black and white maid costumes flit about the crowd waiting to enter the store.
Spring 2013 Fashion Week: Behind-the-scenes Instagrams
Kriticos, who lives in New Jersey and is an aspiring accessories designer, met her best friend in New York City for the extravaganza.
"It's not only about the inspiration from all around and being in stores and seeing the new line and getting excited for Fashion Week, it's everyone coming together for a good cause," she said.
Just outside on Fifth Avenue, friends Jason Campbell, 25, Jamel Pearson, 23, and Darnell Barclift, 22, came together to take advantage of the limited time offers, but to also visit friends who work in the retail shops that line the way.
"We always see a little boost in sales due to the increased foot traffic that results from the excitement of the evening," said Fiona Zeman, who handles public relations and marketing for Ted Baker. "It is a wonderful opportunity to welcome in potential new clients and delight them with our unique store environments."
"It's something fun and exciting to look forward to and everyone is invited. It galvanizes the community around a common love of shopping and fashion in unexpected and creative ways," said Portnoy. "It also provides an excuse to broaden a shopper's horizons by exploring new stores and learning about new designers, plus it's a great excuse to gather with friends and enjoy an evening out on the town."
Further downtown, the air is clouded with cigarette smoke while crowd control barriers line the street to help herd the fashionistas.
At designer Nicole Miller's SoHo boutique, assistant manager Fantcha Mendes bops along to the DJ with an enormous smile because, to her, Fashion's Night Out "encourages people to feel good about themselves." Wear what you want, own it, and in the words of Madonna, express yourself.
Despite all the distractions, she's also smiling because Fashion's Night Out, at least for her boutique, achieved its original goal.
"We're having an amazing day so far," she said with a grin, glancing at the register.

Saturday, September 8, 2012

Fashion Week Stargazing: Day 1

Fashion Week Stargazing: Day 1


ABOUT midday on Thursday, after the Kimberly Ovitz spring 2013 runway show on a pier off the Hudson River, Phil Oh, the street style photographer behind the blog StreetPeeper.com, stood out in a cheerful turquoise and green turtle-print polo shirt by Michael Bastian.


It was only the first day of New York Fashion Week, the kickoff of a fashion marathon that will take its participants to London, Milan and Paris after the New York shows end on Sept. 13, and Mr. Oh seemed unnaturally calm about what lay ahead.

How does he handle it all?

“Adderall,” Mr. Oh said, before snapping a few shots of editors crossing the West Side Highway. “That’s how I survive fashion month.”

Earlier that morning, the Olympic gold medalist Sanya Richards-Ross was backstage at the BCBG Max Azria show in Lincoln Center, waiting, like everybody else, for her seat. Ms. Richards-Ross, who said she landed at 5 a.m. from Los Angeles, wore a daring, see-through top with a wide center strip. “It helps to have an athletic figure,” she said. That and the couple of gold medals she brought along. “They go with everything,” she added, laughing. When she finally took her seat, a chorus of popping flashbulbs greeted her.

Even more popular for the cameras was the reality star Whitney Port. The photographers lingered so long, snapping away, that a woman in the sixth row commented, loudly, “C’mon, she’s not that exciting.”

By comparison, the atmosphere was civil at the Richard Chai Love show, which took place immediately afterward. This was the first fashion show for Russell Westbrook, a guard for the Oklahoma City Thunder, and he looked the part, in his red suede sneakers and wire-rimmed eyeglasses. “Sometimes, the N.B.A. feels like fashion week,” he said of his stylish basketball cohorts. His front-row seatmate, Nick Cannon, wore a brown baseball cap backward.

Downtown at Milk Studios that day, all eyes were on the Creatures of the Wind show. Sure, there were stars, but more of the industry kind. Then it was across the highway to Ms. Ovitz’s show at Pier 57, where her father, the Hollywood power player Michael Ovitz, was backstage, while his girlfriend, Tamara Mellon, the former president of Jimmy Choo, sat front row, stilettos crossed.

On Friday, as people were still recovering from the after-parties that followed Fashion’s Night Out (the bash at Westway for Supreme, the cult skateboard company, went past 4 a.m., according to those who attended), the pace of Fashion Week began to pick up.

The Peter Som show at 10 a.m. kicked off a full day that included roughly 40 shows, including such heavy hitters as Jason Wu, Rag & Bone, Billy Reid and Tommy Hilfiger.

The mood at the Som show, held on the second floor of Milk Studios, was electric. The trick to landing a front-row seat? Be young and restless.

With minutes to go before the first look of spring 2013 strutted down the runway, nearly everyone was out of their seat assignments. In one section, Olivia Palermo, unattainably slim with bouncy Kate Middleton-style curls, stood to chat with Alexis Bryan Morgan. Meanwhile, in the middle aisle, the “Girls” actress Allison Williams was attracting the bulk of the attention, pretty in a burgundy cropped sweater and matching skirt, until the teenage sensation Hailee Steinfeld teetered in on sky-high platform pumps.

Wearing a green long-sleeved lace dress by Mr. Som, naturally, Ms. Steinfeld was wide-eyed. “It took me an hour and a half to get ready,” she said, adding that she was not a morning person.

That wasn’t the case for the blogger and Fashion Week veteran Bryan Boy. “I’ve been up since 5:30 this morning,” he said, clutching his red Jason Wu bag. “I turned 30 this year, and I feel time is the ultimate luxury. I get up early every day. I R.S.V.P.’d ‘no’ to all the parties.”

But if he was feeling older, Bryan Boy’s wrinkle-free complexion certainly didn’t show it. “Oh that’s not genetics,” he said with a laugh. “It’s makeup.”

Friday, September 7, 2012

Carine Roitfeld Exclusive Interview About CR Fashion Book

Carine Roitfeld Exclusive Interview About CR Fashion Book


but she won’t let you call it a comeback. The former editor of French Vogue returns this week with CR Fashion Book – a highly-anticipated fashion bible that will come out twice a year and live online.

The truth is, she never really stopped working. After her departure from French Vogue almost two years ago, she has collaborated with Barneys, styled a book for Karl Lagerfeld, as well as several fashion spreads. 

But in many ways, the magazine’s first installment will be her rebirth. At 57-years-old, she’s also the new face of Mac Cosmetics, and appears in their campaign in black silk lingerie. And just last month, her 30-year-old daughter, Julia, gave birth to a daughter, Romy Nicole. It was a perfect convergence of forces at a single moment – one that inspired Roitfeld to fill her magazine with “the promise of youth, the force of age, and the rush of all things new.”

The inaugural issue features two covers, both in black and white and photographed by Bruce Weber. Kate Upton graces one side holding ducklings – and a second cover depicts a little girl holding a baby and laughing. The ads in the magazine are organized alphabetically.  Tom Ford and Karl Lagerfeld have each contributed photography – and Roitfeld has chosen to feature everyone from Amma, the Hindu spiritual leader, to Leslie Winer, a reclusive model made famous in the 1980s.

"I think it’s better to turn the page of the magazine with a smile on your face," Roitfeld tells us. "It’s a serious business, but at the end of the day, it’s just fashion." In an exclusive interview below, she answers our questions about CR Fashion Book, being called “babuschka” – and babies, babies, babies.


Why was the first issue of CR Fashion Book themed around the concept of rebirth?

We decided for each issue there would be a theme. When I started to work on this issue, my daughter was pregnant, so I was obsessed with pregnancy, with babies, with new life coming. It’s become an obsession. Everyone can interpret the theme in a different way: it could be birth, babies, it could be death - it could be so many different things. The next one will be totally another world.

Do you feel that there’s a particular pressure right now – and that everyone is watching your next move?

I see some things on blogs, though I’m not really into blogs too much. Sometimes pressure can be good, and it gives you a lot of energy to do something. But now, because the magazine is finished and printing is over, I feel pressure and hope people are not going to be disappointed. I had a very, very, small team and everyone worked so hard, it would be sad for me, but very sad for my team, too. I hope people are going to like it. But I’m on my own with Stephen[Gan], I just put the pressure on myself. No one put pressure on me.

How can you justify publishing a book that comes out twice a year with the fast paced feel of fashion coverage on the Web?

I’m not the generation of the Internet – I’m the generation of paper magazines – but with the new site, we’re going to do CR Fashion Book online. It’s very exciting, because it will be like a diary. I hope with the Internet, it will be quicker, and like the front of the book in a classical magazine. This is something very new for me, and very exciting. It’s a new way of thinking, a new way of looking, it’s a new way of doing pictures. Why did you choose to put Kate Upton on the cover?

It was an idea I shared with Bruce Weber about babies, animals, and little girls. I didn’t want a normal model. I wanted someone with a sensual body, someone who could be a mother for all these babies. Honestly, from the first time I worked with her – I saw in Sports Illustrated some pictures she did with Terry Richardson. I would not say she’s a controversial model, but she’s not a classic model. And I like that.

From the first time I met her when I did the story, she was so cool, and so good with all the baby dolls – I thought it was the best choice. It felt so natural for her to hold babies, baby pigs, baby lambs, baby donkeys. Maybe people will be surprised that she was my first cover, but you know, I always like to surprise people.

Why did you decide to put a little girl on the other cover?

This little girl was the choice of Bruce. He proposed it to me, and I said, “yes, she seems perfect for me.” She was a perfect beauty, classic age – and she was able to carry another baby.  She’s under 10. For her, it was like turning the page of a fairytale.

Why did you choose to feature the model Leslie Winer in the magazine?

I don’t know if people remember her, but she was one of the biggest models in the 1980’s. She was the first model who put her hair like a boy and dressed like a boy. When I first met her 25 years ago, she was pregnant – now she has five daughters. I hadn’t seen her in 25 years!

What was Tom Ford’s contribution to the magazine?

He gave the idea of this fairytale. It was like Romeo & Juliet. It was quite quick, and everything was well-prepared in advanced. We know that Tom has lots of amazing ideas – and it was all his fantasy. When he proposed this story to me, I was in heaven. It was exactly what I was looking for.

What did Karl Lagerfeld contribute?

I’m working with him a lot – I just styled his book, The Little Black Jacket. We’ve been working together for two years now. He was the right photographer to photograph this big, American icon that I wanted to transform into a big, French icon of the 1960s and 1970s because he knew them. I think he had a lot of fun doing it – he was very happy.

What’s the most surprising thing about being a grandmother?

I was there in New York when my granddaughter was born. Immediately you feel so much love. It is very difficult to explain, but it is pure love. I’m sad I’m not spending more time with her, because I’m living in Paris and she’s in New York. Her name is Romy Nicole.  ‘Romy’ because my daughter loved Romy Schneider, the French actress – and ‘Nicole’  because it was the name of my mother. Julia loved her grandmother so much. If my granddaughter loves me as much as my daughter loved my mother, it will be beautiful.

How do you feel about being called a ‘grandmother with sex appeal?’

Now, everything has changed. “Grandmother” doesn’t mean that you have gray hair and you retire and stay home cooking cakes for your grandchildren. Now, a grandmother is young, and she’s still doing a lot of things - a grandmother can wear high heels. [Julia] gave me a big, big present with this little girl. She had a baby three months ago, and now my new baby comes out in two weeks. So I’m a very happy grandma. And I don’t know what [Romy Nicole] is going to call me. I was expecting the Russian name, which is Babuschka. But she will decide, no?

Thursday, September 6, 2012

Fashion Inspiration, Near and Far

Fashion Inspiration, Near and Far

On Wednesday morning, one day before the official start of New York Fashion Week, the W Hotel in Times Square hosted more fashionable guests than usual.

The hotel's EWOW Suite was the setting for an official announcement of a partnership between W Hotels Worldwide and the Council of Fashion Designers of America's Fashion Incubator, a program aimed at supporting emerging New York City-based designers. Many of the designers who are part of the Incubator were on hand as well as other supporting designers and a bevy of retail and fashion executives.


CFDA President Diane von Furstenberg checked in and out quickly. This being the W, there was a DJ duo spinning for the crowd, and the walls in the suite, which was transformed into a raw gallery-like space, were plastered with the Incubator designers' inspiration boards.

Under the partnership, consumers and W guests will be introduced to Incubator and other newish designers who will travel to W Hotels around the country for special events such as trunk shows. "For our guests and followers, they really care about what's new and next in fashion, they want to learn more," said Carlos Becil, vice president of brand management, Starwood's Luxury and Design Brands, North America. He admitted he wasn't familiar with most of the Incubator designers. "That's the beauty of the program," he said. "We're not the ones selecting the designers."

And, these being fashion designers whose inspirations for collections are typically faraway places (Morocco! Africa! Transylvania!), W will provide inspiration trips to each Incubator designer, offering a weeklong journey to any of W's 42 urban or resort destinations world-wide as they plan an upcoming collection.

"I would love to go to St. Petersburg," said Luis Fernandez, co-head of menswear label Number:Lab, an Incubator designer. "That whole Russian Olympics thing. That would be pretty inspiring."

"Hoboken," replied CFDA chief executive Steven Kolb when asked where he would like to be sent. Then "I don't know, I guess I would go to Bali." The connection between W and the CFDA? "Our name is all letters and their name is a letter. You can't get any easier than that."

Then, seriously, he praised W for recognizing that without the ability to have commerce to support a designer's business, "it's void." A vacant room, as it were.

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

In fashion world, one designer covers up

In fashion world, one designer covers up

NEW YORK: Designers love to push boundaries in the search for that sexy catwalk look, but Nzinga Knight, an American Muslim, takes an even more daring tack: covering her models up.

At New York Fashion Week, which starts Thursday, impossibly tall, slinky creatures will sashay down the runways at Lincoln Center in clothes that can leave little to the imagination.

However, when it’s Knight’s turn, forget about flashes of breast or thigh-high split skirts. There will be long sleeves, long hems – and they’ll be sure to get attention.

“Definitely in my work people look at it and say that it’s really different and fashion’s really about being different,” she told AFP at a studio in the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, where she was embroidering a romantic but decidedly modest black and cream dress.

Knight, 31, is a devout Muslim, praying five times a day. But the up-and-coming designer is more fashionista than preacher.

“The look of my work is sensual, mysterious, innovative,” she said, describing her target as “a woman who’s happy to be a woman.”

The difference lies in how she creates that sensuality.

When she launched her line in 2008, she found designers were fixated by clothes that “show cleavage and back.”

“I felt a lot of women were wearing things because that’s what magazines told them,” she said. “It seemed each designer had the same point of view.”

So Knight set out to combine Islam’s strict moral codes with her native New Yorker’s sense of style and quickly found she had what any enterprising young designers would crave: a niche.

“My aesthetic was something really missing in the market,” she said. “It’s very distinct and can give me an edge.”

Her upcoming collection will feature 10 evening dresses and several blouses.

Various shades of off-white, black, pink and matte gold dominate, with beads hand-sewn in India added to the trim. One full length dress in black and oyster shell white features a ruffled lower hem, but only at the back, so it comes as a surprise, like a mermaid’s tail.

It is modest clothing, but hardly fit for a shrinking violet.

Whoever wears them “definitely has places to go,” she said.

Knight’s original outlook makes her almost unique on planet fashion, where black designers are rare and black Muslims rarer. “There are basically none,” she says.

But with her exotic background she’s always comfortable navigating her own path.

Her father emigrated from Trinidad, her mother from Guyana, both of them converting to Islam after reaching New York, where they raised six daughters.

“The fact I’m in New York, a native New Yorker, and New York is very much about style, what’s fresh, what’s hot, and the fact that I come from a Caribbean culture that’s very vibrant and then the fact that I’m Muslim ...” Knight had to pause to catch her breath.

“I embody a lot of things,” she said.

In some Muslim countries, head-to-toe black robes, or abayas, are obligatory for women in the street, something that horrifies many Westerners.

But Knight says her experiences make her sympathetic. On a trip last year to Dubai, where one of her sisters lives, she recalls discovering the apparently uniform black fabric contains a multitude of subtle, individual differences. “No two women were the same.”

She also realized that at home, women take off their robes to reveal the latest in high fashion they’d been wearing underneath.

“They are vibrant and wear amazing colors. Only their special friends get to see them though,” Knight said. “I think it’s sexy for a woman to have secrets, good secrets.”

In Western society, she argues, women are not as liberated as they may think they are.

Knight gave the example of pop stars, saying men are judged largely on their singing talent, while female performers have to go an extra step.

“I think women in this society aren’t allowed just to stand on their own merit,” she said. “For most of the women who really make it, you know, they have to take their clothes off. That’s the game they have to play.”

In her own work, she’s looking to shift the rules of the game.

“I’m telling a story that people aren’t telling.”

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

In this sexy fashion world, Nzinga Knight is covering up

In this sexy fashion world, Nzinga Knight is covering up


At New York Fashion Week, which starts Thursday, impossibly tall, slinky creatures will sashay down the runways at Lincoln Center in clothes that can leave little to the imagination.
But when it's Knight's turn, forget about flashes of breast or thigh-high split skirts. There will be long sleeves, long hems - and they'll be sure to get attention.
"Definitely in my work people look at it and say that it's really different and fashion's really about being different," she told AFP at a studio in the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, where she was embroidering a romantic but decidedly modest black and cream dress.
Knight, 31, is a devout Muslim, praying five times a day. But the up-and-coming designer is more fashionista than preacher.
"The look of my work is sensual, mysterious, innovative," she said, describing her target as "a woman who's happy to be a woman."
The difference lies in how she creates that sensuality.
When she launched her line in 2008, she found designers were fixated by clothes that "show cleavage and back."
"I felt a lot of women were wearing things because that's what the magazines told them," she said. "It seemed each designer had the same point of view."
So Knight set out to combine Islam's strict moral codes with her native New Yorker's sense of style and quickly found she had what any enterprising young designers would crave: a niche.
"My aesthetic was something really missing in the market," she said. "It's very distinct and can give me an edge."
Her upcoming collection will feature 10 evening dresses and several blouses.
Various shades of off-white, black, pink and matte gold dominate, with beads hand-sewn in India added to the trim. One full length dress in black and oyster shell white features a ruffled lower hem, but only at the back, so that it comes as a surprise, like a mermaid's tail.
It is modest clothing, but hardly fit for a shrinking violet.
Whoever wears them "definitely has places to go," she said.
Knight's original outlook makes her almost unique on planet fashion, where black designers are rare and black Muslims rarer. "There are basically none," she says.
But with her exotic background she's always comfortable navigating her own path.
Her father emigrated from Trinidad, her mother from Guyana, both of them converting to Islam after reaching New York, where they raised six daughters.
"The fact I'm in New York, a native New Yorker, and New York is very much about style, what's fresh, what's hot, and the fact that I come from a Caribbean culture that's very vibrant and then the fact that I'm Muslim..." Knight had to pause to catch her breath.
"I embody a lot of things," she said.
In some Muslim countries, head-to-toe black robes, or abayas, are obligatory for women in the street, something that horrifies many Westerners.
But Knight says her experiences make her sympathetic. On a trip last year to Dubai, where one of her sisters lives, she recalls discovering the apparently uniform black fabric contains a multitude of subtle, individual differences.
"No two women were the same," she said.
She also realized that at home, women take off their robes to reveal the latest in high fashion they'd been wearing underneath.
"They are vibrant and wear amazing colours. Only their special friends get to see them though," Knight said. "I think it's sexy for a woman to have secrets, good secrets."
In Western society, she argues, women are not as liberated as they may think they are.
Knight gave the example of pop stars, saying men are judged largely on their singing talent, while female performers have to go an extra step.
"I think that women in this society aren't allowed just to stand on their own merit," she said. "For most of the women who really make it, you know, they have to take their clothes off. That's the game they have to play."
In her own work, she's looking to shift the rules of the game.
"I'm telling a story that people aren't telling," Knight said.


Monday, September 3, 2012

Osbourne on fashion

Osbourne on fashion


Kelly Osbourne was a reality star, actress and musician before anyone took notice that she had a knack for style.

But the 27-year-old daughter of Ozzy Osbourne, currently with violet hair after stints of pink, lilac and gray, is now being tapped to kick off fashion-fueled events, too, such as The Magnificent Mile Shopping Festival along Chicago’s Michigan Avenue. While there Osbourne shared three things she learned walking the red carpet that she considers top everyday tips for real women:

Spray tans. “It just gives you that golden glow, a bit of bronze, like you’ve been kissed by the sun,” Osbourne said. “It makes you look slimmer and it makes you feel healthier. I always do that. I hate that I don’t have one now.”

Flatter that figure. “Even if you’re a skinny girl, Spanx are a must,” Osbourne said, name-checking the shaping undergarments have become a red-carpet staple for women. “Nobody wants to see your belly button through your dress.”

Pamper your feet. “Always pack a pair of ballet flats in your handbag because by the end of the night your feet are killing you. You want to keep going but you can’t. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to go home early because my feet hurt and I haven’t had a pair of shoes to change into. Don’t let your footwear ruin your good time,” she said.

And for those who must know what Osbourne was wearing in Chicago to meet with reporters: A long, flowing short-sleeved black dress with a rainbow leaf print by Issa (a British label that Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, has helped popularize) and a ring with a large purple stone and a jeweled leaf by Chanel.

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Fashion's Night Out is back at King of Prussia Mall

Fashion's Night Out is back at King of Prussia Mall


Fashion’s Night Out (FNO), a fashion event created to bring the enjoyment back in shopping is here again.

On Thursday, Sept. 6, from 6 to 9 p.m., you can share a night with several models, editors, stars, fashionistas and designers as they spill throughout the stores at the King of Prussia Mall.

“In 2009, Vogue Magazine, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and the city of New York partnered with the hottest fashion capitals of the world to create a global event that would support the fashion industry during tough economic times and restore consumer confidence. This event became known as Fashion’s Night Out. King of Prussia Mall was the first mall in the world to be officially sanctioned by Vogue as a participant and we are currently celebrating our fourth Fashion's Night Out event,” says Kathy Smith, director of marketing.

This event serves to celebrate fashion, restore consumer confidence and boost the retail economy.Fashion’s Night Out has grown into a trendy global event, with more than 100 cities around the world participating.

“This year's fashion show is going take on a more exciting and modern look and feel. We're ditching the traditional catwalk concept and introducing a high-energy fashion presentation that replicates a professional high-fashion photo shoot. Presentations will start at 6, 7 and 8 p.m. and last about 20 minutes each. We'll show looks from more than 25 KOP retailers this year,” Smith announced.

This will be an evening of high style and fashion entertainment.

“Fashion's Night Out is a celebration of fashion and style. The event gives people an opportunity to gather with friends, dress up and express their individual style and take advantage of great offers at their favorite retail stores. We see a lot of style setters and ‘fashionistas’ every year. They come because they have a passion for fashion. King of Prussia has a reputation for staying ahead of the curve and FNO offers them an opportunity to see what will be on-trend in the upcoming season, while also giving customers a good sense of what's available in stores right now,” explains Smith.

More than 50 of King of Prussia’s hottest retailers will offer trunk shows, makeovers, giveaways and entertainment. Models will showcase the latest trends for fall by posing in a faux photo shoot beginning at 7 p.m.

“King of Prussia Mall's 2012 Fashion's Night Out will offer more interactive experiences than ever before. The fashion events are always exciting; this year's will be in the Nordstrom Court.