Fashion Week's New Home: An arsenal of soaring space and style
So says Marie Saint Pierre on the move of Montreal Fashion Week to grand new quarters at the Arsenal, an imposing centre for contemporary art in Griffintown.
Saint Pierre, marking 25 years in the fickle and fast-paced fashion business, is the doyenne of the Quebec fashion scene.
“The high ceilings, the fact that it’s an art gallery, the lighting — everything is better for us there,’’ she said, adding the former venue Marché Bonsecours was not suited to events and it was impossible to get precise lighting.
“When you want to do a laboratory to showcase your design you need a clean space with a certain height of ceiling and a certain length of (runway).”
With the move comes a fresh breeze of energy and a critical mass of designers showing their spring 2013 collections next Tuesday to Friday. The venue, the former Marine Works Shipyard, built in 1846, boasts 20,000 square feet of soaring space for the main runway room. It has two rooms for shows and events. The main runway room, with 530 seats and standing room for 220, has a 100-foot catwalk. The smaller gallery holds up to about 200 people. Bonsecours had a capacity of about 600 people in one room.
Among the two dozen or so designers are seasoned veterans like Denis Gagnon and Tavãn & Mitto and a rising generation of talents:
UNTTLD, Anastasia Lomonova, Iris Setlakwe, Mélissa Nepton and Martin Lim. But there are totally new names to discover, too. Hip and Bone, Pedram Karimi and Nisse are among those making their designer debuts.
Danielle Martin of the Martin Lim husband-wife label said the space was inspiring, reminiscent of the Tate Gallery in London in the way it impresses you when you enter. The pair, continue their exploration of geometric themes blended with organic shapes for spring, inspired by artist Ellsworth Kelly.
The gallery space suits the DNA of their line, Martin said.
Simon Bélanger and José Manuel St-Jacques, who are going geisha for spring, were over the top about the new venue. “Amazing — it made us want to do another show,’’ Bélanger said. “All that we want in life is a platform on which to present our clothing and our ideas in the best way.
“The fact that it’s an art gallery says a lot about Montreal.”
Manon Lapierre, PR director for P&G Beauty and Grooming in Quebec, a major sponsor for the week, echoed that idea: “Fashion is art. It just makes sense to me. It’s a gorgeous space,’’ she said.
The semi-annual trade shows aim to showcase local creativity in fashion design, primarily to media and buyers from here and from abroad. But the public can buy tickets to shows or attend Montreal’s first edition of Fashion’s Night Out, the celebration of shopping and style that is being held simultaneously in cities around the world. (See story below.)
Another bit of fresh news: Target, the giant U.S. discount chain, has signed on as a partner for the week, alongside P&G, which provides hair and makeup services for the week.
To mark her anniversary, Saint Pierre is showcasing her spring line along with her latest project – furniture – in a cocktail installation. The chairs, loungers and pillows are plush, irregular mounds in red or black, reminiscent of beanbag chairs, perhaps.
“It’s an addendum to my knowledge of fabric and my way of sewing,’’ she said in her showroom near the Atwater Market. “I wanted to continue my research on well-being.’’
For comfort she worked on organic, sculptural shapes, she said: “It’s a normal extension, designing a habitat for the body, then designing a habitat.”
The fashion line itself is what we have come to expect from Saint Pierre: the strong signature with a play of structure and fluidity, in plenty of black, some grey and cream, and shots of bright pink coral. Sheer fabrics are edged in wool crepe, so the weight creates shape and movement.
There are the go-to basic pieces in black: slouchy Ts and dresses, fluid trousers, coats that do double duty as real outerwear and vanity statement pieces in which to make an entrance.
And it’s all made in Montreal with superb attention to detail, advanced technology and fine fabrics.
Saint Pierre has an apt analysis of the sea-changes in the fashion business over the past 25 years. We asked her advice for those young designers and to recall the changes in fashion. She said she is looking at all the new designers, and is constantly on the phone with them, offering advice. “They don’t listen much, but they’re young,” she joked.
Saint Pierre is also the new president of the Quebec fashion designers’ group, the Conseil des créateurs de mode du Québec. The group plans events to create buzz and sales in Montreal or elsewhere. “You need to do it with a ‘wow’ factor.”
All the designers are on board, Saint Pierre noted.
“It’s another phase,’’ she said of the new era in fashion, and it’s good for young designers.
The Internet and social media have engendered a more underground appreciation of fashion, and people can decide for themselves what they wish to buy, through e-commerce, pop-up shops or retail, Saint Pierre said. And the designer does not need traditional retail to endorse his or her product.
“There’s no supremacy of what’s good and what’s bad. You can decide on your own to educate yourself,’’ she said.
Before, if you didn’t sell at Bergdorf Goodman or another major store you weren’t even considered a fashion designer, she remarked.
To Saint Pierre, the past 15 or 20 years have been a good time to get better at what you are doing: the market did not grow.
“For 15 or 20 years, people just wanted to be a carrier of big names and labels,” she said.
But the pace today is very fast and it’s tough to keep up.
“Globalization changed all the rules,’’ she said. “China changed the whole fashion industry, in its core, in its soul. Everything became accessible at every price, and was copied extremely rapidly,” Saint Pierre said.
Most companies went to China and shopped a huge walk-in closet of designer goods, she noted. They just changed some slight details, of a Prada coat, for instance, produced it and sold it as their own.
Saint Pierre recalls a cape sweater she did in 1995, “that every woman on the planet now has. It was part of every collection of every designer — copied, knocked off at the exact same proportion.
“It was really intellectual property.”
The piece, a sweater with shawl collar that wraps around your body or neck is indeed ubiquitous. And that piece is very much in the signature of Saint Pierre.
“It’s all about comfort and ease,’’ Saint Pierre said of her design philosophy. “My clothes talk more on a body than on a hanger.”
When asked how she was celebrating the anniversary, Saint Pierre at first answered that she was holding the course, continuing on growing her business.
But then she reconsidered.
“We are celebrating in a modest way. Because 25 years here is a humongous achievement.”
Friday, August 31, 2012
Thursday, August 30, 2012
Madonna Flaunts American Fashion and Freedoms
Madonna Flaunts American Fashion and Freedoms
PHILADELPHIA (AP) - As she kicked off the U.S. leg of her "MDNA Tour" in Philadelphia, Madonna said she was happy to party in the USA after touring Europe for three months.
The pop icon told the crowd Tuesday night they should "never forget how lucky you are to live where you live and to have the freedom that you have." She made the comments after talking about the arrest of three members of the punk-rock female band Pussy Riot. The women were sentenced to two years in prison after performing a "punk prayer" at Moscow’s Christ the Savior cathedral in which they called on the Virgin Mary to deliver Russia from its leader, Vladimir Putin.
"In my travels around the world the one thing I truly witnessed is we in America have freedom of speech, freedom of expression," the singer said.
Madonna, who toured most of Europe from June to August, has called for the Pussy Riot members to be freed. Paul McCartney and Peter Gabriel also have spoken in the women’s favor.
"I don’t think that it’s a coincidence that I’m in the city where the Declaration of Independence was signed," Madonna said at the Wells Fargo Center to nearly 20,000 fans. "We are in the land of democracy."
Russian activists recently sued Madonna for millions of dollars, claiming they were offended by her support for gay rights during her show in St. Petersburg. A law passed in February makes it illegal to promote homosexuality to minors, and the author of that law has pointed to the presence of children as young as 12 at Madonna’s concert on Aug. 9. (Minors also attended Madonna’s U.S. show.)
When speaking about Pussy Riot, Madonna said that about 80 gay men were jailed in St. Petersburg because of their sexual orientation. She told the crowd that the arrests were unfair, and they booed in her support.
Then the 53-year-old told the U.S. audience: "Don’t get fat and lazy and take that freedom for granted."
Madonna kicked off her concert late on Tuesday, apologizing to the crowd, who began to boo before she hit the stage around 10:30 p.m. EST.
"We had many changes to make from Europe to America, and I wanted the show to be perfect for you because my fans deserve it and quite frankly I deserve it," she said.
She performed for nearly two hours, starting in a skin-tight black ensemble with a gun in hand as she sang the song "Girls Gone Wild" from her latest album "MDNA." She transitioned to "Revolver," as she and her background dancers held guns and bullets appeared on the backdrop. (Madonna posted on her website that she does not condone violence or the use of guns and she’s using fake guns in concert as a metaphor for strength.) During the next song - "Gang Bang" - she shot a man and spat what appeared to be liquor in his face, while blood spats and bloody hands appeared on the screen.
The dark mood escaped as Madonna changed into a red and white marching band get-up, singing "Express Yourself" and "Give Me All Your Luvin’" as a marching band played to the crowd. She sang some of Lady Gaga’s "Born This Way," pulling up her skirt to reveal her red shorts.
Madonna’s performances of "Celebration" and "I’m Addicted" were also colorful, as laser lights beamed and the venue became nightclub-like. Madonna’s best vocal performance, though, was during "Like a Prayer," which featured more than 30 back-up singers in robes. She got the best response from the crowd when she performed "Vogue," as the dancers and Madonna - now in a corset, long gloves and her hair pulled back - strutted in black and white onstage.
She got racy during "Like a Virgin" and "Human Nature," taking off her shirt to reveal her bra, and pulling down her pants to reveal her thong (she wore fishnet stockings).
"Sometimes it’s easier to show your (butt) than show your feelings. Maybe tonight we can all live dangerously," said Madonna, who had the words "No Fear" on her back.
PHILADELPHIA (AP) - As she kicked off the U.S. leg of her "MDNA Tour" in Philadelphia, Madonna said she was happy to party in the USA after touring Europe for three months.
The pop icon told the crowd Tuesday night they should "never forget how lucky you are to live where you live and to have the freedom that you have." She made the comments after talking about the arrest of three members of the punk-rock female band Pussy Riot. The women were sentenced to two years in prison after performing a "punk prayer" at Moscow’s Christ the Savior cathedral in which they called on the Virgin Mary to deliver Russia from its leader, Vladimir Putin.
"In my travels around the world the one thing I truly witnessed is we in America have freedom of speech, freedom of expression," the singer said.
Madonna, who toured most of Europe from June to August, has called for the Pussy Riot members to be freed. Paul McCartney and Peter Gabriel also have spoken in the women’s favor.
"I don’t think that it’s a coincidence that I’m in the city where the Declaration of Independence was signed," Madonna said at the Wells Fargo Center to nearly 20,000 fans. "We are in the land of democracy."
Russian activists recently sued Madonna for millions of dollars, claiming they were offended by her support for gay rights during her show in St. Petersburg. A law passed in February makes it illegal to promote homosexuality to minors, and the author of that law has pointed to the presence of children as young as 12 at Madonna’s concert on Aug. 9. (Minors also attended Madonna’s U.S. show.)
When speaking about Pussy Riot, Madonna said that about 80 gay men were jailed in St. Petersburg because of their sexual orientation. She told the crowd that the arrests were unfair, and they booed in her support.
Then the 53-year-old told the U.S. audience: "Don’t get fat and lazy and take that freedom for granted."
Madonna kicked off her concert late on Tuesday, apologizing to the crowd, who began to boo before she hit the stage around 10:30 p.m. EST.
"We had many changes to make from Europe to America, and I wanted the show to be perfect for you because my fans deserve it and quite frankly I deserve it," she said.
She performed for nearly two hours, starting in a skin-tight black ensemble with a gun in hand as she sang the song "Girls Gone Wild" from her latest album "MDNA." She transitioned to "Revolver," as she and her background dancers held guns and bullets appeared on the backdrop. (Madonna posted on her website that she does not condone violence or the use of guns and she’s using fake guns in concert as a metaphor for strength.) During the next song - "Gang Bang" - she shot a man and spat what appeared to be liquor in his face, while blood spats and bloody hands appeared on the screen.
The dark mood escaped as Madonna changed into a red and white marching band get-up, singing "Express Yourself" and "Give Me All Your Luvin’" as a marching band played to the crowd. She sang some of Lady Gaga’s "Born This Way," pulling up her skirt to reveal her red shorts.
Madonna’s performances of "Celebration" and "I’m Addicted" were also colorful, as laser lights beamed and the venue became nightclub-like. Madonna’s best vocal performance, though, was during "Like a Prayer," which featured more than 30 back-up singers in robes. She got the best response from the crowd when she performed "Vogue," as the dancers and Madonna - now in a corset, long gloves and her hair pulled back - strutted in black and white onstage.
She got racy during "Like a Virgin" and "Human Nature," taking off her shirt to reveal her bra, and pulling down her pants to reveal her thong (she wore fishnet stockings).
"Sometimes it’s easier to show your (butt) than show your feelings. Maybe tonight we can all live dangerously," said Madonna, who had the words "No Fear" on her back.
Wednesday, August 29, 2012
Sonakshi Sinha at India Bridal Fashion Week
As many as 11 top-notch designers will participate in the forthcoming Aamby Valley India Bridal Fashion Week and they gave a sneak peek into their special creations at an introductory event in New Delhi on Tuesday.
Sonakshi Sinha was the special guest at the fashion event, which kick started with Miss India World Vanya Mishra walking the ramp in designer JJ Valaya’s A-line burgundy-coloured suit with golden embroidery.
The five-day fashion show will be opened by Tarun Tahiliani in Mumbai on September 12. Also, Vikram Phadnis, designer duo Shantanu-Nikhil, Meera-Muzaffar Ali, Ashima-Leena, Narendra Kumar Ahmed, Falguni-Shane, Anjalee-Arjun Kapoor, Mandira Wirk, Jyotsana Tiwari and JJ Valaya, who is the closing designer, are participating in it.
Talking about grand finale, Valaya said: “What I showed here was actually Burgundy and obviously red is intrinsic to the whole bridal thing, but my collection will see a lot of turquoise, a lot of flame colours.”
The event took a starry turn when Bollywood actress Sonakshi Sinha sashayed down the ramp in a red net sari with a thin golden border created by Jyotsna Tiwari.
Asked when she plans to get married, the 25-year-old said: “I don’t know what I am doing day after tomorrow, how can I say that? Right now I am just glad wearing these beautiful bridal outfits.”
Tuesday, August 28, 2012
'Fashion Star'
'Fashion Star'
You know her by the sunglasses she always has with her. You know her from TV, and you might know her from the tabloids, too, but Nicole Richie isn't convinced any of it works for or against her when it comes to building her design career.
She guided aspiring designers on the fashion competition show "Fashion Star," and says she sees success in the fashion business as either potentially intense and fleeting, or broad-based and sustained. It's up to the work you do — and doing it consistently, she says.
"You're only as good as your last season," she says.
Richie, it seems, is banking on a big fall season. That's when her limited-edition collection for Macy's contemporary department debuts, and she also stars in the ads.
Richie, 30, isn't an industry novice. She's gained recognition for her lines Winter Kate and House of Harlow, but the Nicole Richie for Impulse collaboration, best described as contemporary clothes styled with Richie's bohemian flair, is her greatest exposure yet. The clothes, including maxi dresses, asymmetrical skirts, cropped tops and fitted jackets in an array of jewel tones and prints, will be in 100 stores and available online starting Sept. 12.
She hasn't taken the task lightly.
"Well, my main focus just with everything that I design is to really get to know the customer, and I spend a lot of time doing that," she says. "I'm traveling all year just with various appearances that I do for Winter Kate and House of Harlow, and the reason that I do these appearances is because I really get to come face-to-face with my customer, and as I'm watching them in the store I can see what pieces they're wearing, I can see what they're drawn to, what people's favorite pieces are and people are always wanting to tell me a story of how they got that ring or that bracelet, or how they wear their tops or their sunglasses. That's something that I pay attention to and that I really take into consideration whenever I'm designing the next collection."
Getting glammed up is part of her job, but Richie, who has two young children, Harlow and Sparrow, says she's not always picture-perfect. She carries the big round sunglasses she's famous for as well as bobby pins wherever she goes for a quick transformation. (Richie says she's a master at a quick hair braid.)
You know her by the sunglasses she always has with her. You know her from TV, and you might know her from the tabloids, too, but Nicole Richie isn't convinced any of it works for or against her when it comes to building her design career.
She guided aspiring designers on the fashion competition show "Fashion Star," and says she sees success in the fashion business as either potentially intense and fleeting, or broad-based and sustained. It's up to the work you do — and doing it consistently, she says.
"You're only as good as your last season," she says.
Richie, it seems, is banking on a big fall season. That's when her limited-edition collection for Macy's contemporary department debuts, and she also stars in the ads.
Richie, 30, isn't an industry novice. She's gained recognition for her lines Winter Kate and House of Harlow, but the Nicole Richie for Impulse collaboration, best described as contemporary clothes styled with Richie's bohemian flair, is her greatest exposure yet. The clothes, including maxi dresses, asymmetrical skirts, cropped tops and fitted jackets in an array of jewel tones and prints, will be in 100 stores and available online starting Sept. 12.
She hasn't taken the task lightly.
"Well, my main focus just with everything that I design is to really get to know the customer, and I spend a lot of time doing that," she says. "I'm traveling all year just with various appearances that I do for Winter Kate and House of Harlow, and the reason that I do these appearances is because I really get to come face-to-face with my customer, and as I'm watching them in the store I can see what pieces they're wearing, I can see what they're drawn to, what people's favorite pieces are and people are always wanting to tell me a story of how they got that ring or that bracelet, or how they wear their tops or their sunglasses. That's something that I pay attention to and that I really take into consideration whenever I'm designing the next collection."
Getting glammed up is part of her job, but Richie, who has two young children, Harlow and Sparrow, says she's not always picture-perfect. She carries the big round sunglasses she's famous for as well as bobby pins wherever she goes for a quick transformation. (Richie says she's a master at a quick hair braid.)
Monday, August 27, 2012
Galliano's gong loss: Fashion designer stripped of award over racism conviction
Galliano's gong loss: Fashion designer stripped of award over racism conviction
Fashion designer John Galliano has been stripped of France’s highest civilian award because of his conviction for racism, it emerged yesterday.
French president Francois Hollande revoked his Legion d’Honneur almost a year after he was fined £5,000 and sacked from his job as artistic boss of the Dior fashion house for anti-Semitic rants in his local Paris bar.
A trial was told how Galliano, 51, berated museum curator Geraldine Bloch for being Jewish and subjected her friend of South African origin to vile racist abuse.
In a third incident, the court was shown an amateur video of him declaring his love for Adolf Hitler and referring to Jewish people being gassed in concentration camps.
Galliano claimed at the time that he had no memory of the rants and denied he was a racist.
But he also admitted making the comments in 2010 and subsequently apologised, blaming twin addictions to drugs and alcohol.
He told the court: “They are not views I hold or believe in.
"I apologise for the sadness this affair has caused.”
The fashion designer, originally of Gibraltar, has kept a low profile since the conviction.
But some reports say he is considering a full-time move to Los Angeles.
The Legion d’Honneur is given to people judged to have served France or the ideals of liberty, equality and fraternity which serve as the country’s motto.
Fashion designer John Galliano has been stripped of France’s highest civilian award because of his conviction for racism, it emerged yesterday.
French president Francois Hollande revoked his Legion d’Honneur almost a year after he was fined £5,000 and sacked from his job as artistic boss of the Dior fashion house for anti-Semitic rants in his local Paris bar.
A trial was told how Galliano, 51, berated museum curator Geraldine Bloch for being Jewish and subjected her friend of South African origin to vile racist abuse.
In a third incident, the court was shown an amateur video of him declaring his love for Adolf Hitler and referring to Jewish people being gassed in concentration camps.
Galliano claimed at the time that he had no memory of the rants and denied he was a racist.
But he also admitted making the comments in 2010 and subsequently apologised, blaming twin addictions to drugs and alcohol.
He told the court: “They are not views I hold or believe in.
"I apologise for the sadness this affair has caused.”
The fashion designer, originally of Gibraltar, has kept a low profile since the conviction.
But some reports say he is considering a full-time move to Los Angeles.
The Legion d’Honneur is given to people judged to have served France or the ideals of liberty, equality and fraternity which serve as the country’s motto.
Thursday, August 23, 2012
Sydney in the swim for fashion showcase
Sydney in the swim for fashion showcase
The organisers of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia in Sydney are considering taking the plunge into swimwear, with a new fashion week in the harbour city devoted entirely to bikinis and beach apparel.
"Our Australian swimwear designers are so strong internationally and we are one of the strongest beach cultures in the world," said Elle Persson, director of strategy and marketing for IMG Fashion, which owns MBFWA.
''The question is: how do we capture that market?''
IMG Fashion already runs Miami Swim Fashion Week, the world's largest fashion week devoted to swimwear, at which Kooey, Lisa Blue and White Sands were among the Australian brands to show during this year's event in July.
IMG held a Swim Fashion Week in Queensland in 2009 but it sank after one year due to insufficient sponsorship. Introducing a new Swim Fashion Week in Sydney would enable IMG to attract more international interest, better leverage overseas interest in our swimwear, which is one of the strongest global growth categories in the apparel industry.
"Event organisers in Miami wouldn't be filling the schedule with Australian labels if the buyers weren't asking for them," Persson said. "We are discussing whether [Australian] swimwear warrants another platform and what that event looks like."
Lisa Blue, Kooey and Suboo were among brands that showed their bikinis and one-piece swimsuits at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Festival Sydney yesterday.
Billed as the "best of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim," the catwalk presentation featured Australian designers first presented on the runway in Miami.
In a poolside twist on Game of Thrones, Lisa Blue opened the show with a dragon and goddess-theme cossie collection.
The designer of Lisa Blue, Lisa Burke, said she would welcome a Swim Fashion Week in Sydney.
"We are the land of the bikinis and Sydney year round is a little warmer, so hence more appropriate than Melbourne."
The organisers of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia in Sydney are considering taking the plunge into swimwear, with a new fashion week in the harbour city devoted entirely to bikinis and beach apparel.
"Our Australian swimwear designers are so strong internationally and we are one of the strongest beach cultures in the world," said Elle Persson, director of strategy and marketing for IMG Fashion, which owns MBFWA.
''The question is: how do we capture that market?''
IMG Fashion already runs Miami Swim Fashion Week, the world's largest fashion week devoted to swimwear, at which Kooey, Lisa Blue and White Sands were among the Australian brands to show during this year's event in July.
IMG held a Swim Fashion Week in Queensland in 2009 but it sank after one year due to insufficient sponsorship. Introducing a new Swim Fashion Week in Sydney would enable IMG to attract more international interest, better leverage overseas interest in our swimwear, which is one of the strongest global growth categories in the apparel industry.
"Event organisers in Miami wouldn't be filling the schedule with Australian labels if the buyers weren't asking for them," Persson said. "We are discussing whether [Australian] swimwear warrants another platform and what that event looks like."
Lisa Blue, Kooey and Suboo were among brands that showed their bikinis and one-piece swimsuits at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Festival Sydney yesterday.
Billed as the "best of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim," the catwalk presentation featured Australian designers first presented on the runway in Miami.
In a poolside twist on Game of Thrones, Lisa Blue opened the show with a dragon and goddess-theme cossie collection.
The designer of Lisa Blue, Lisa Burke, said she would welcome a Swim Fashion Week in Sydney.
"We are the land of the bikinis and Sydney year round is a little warmer, so hence more appropriate than Melbourne."
Wednesday, August 22, 2012
Fashion magazines now airbrushing models to make them look ... fatter?
Fashion magazines now airbrushing models to make them look ... fatter?
Oh Kate Upton, what have you done?
While magazines have airbrushed pounds off models and celebs for years, to the consternation of many, the latest trend in the editorial and advertising world is digitally altering subjects to appear larger and curvier.
“I have to airbrush clients’ to make them appear bigger and more womanly before I submit photographs,” one leading talent manager told FOX411’s Pop Tarts column. “Skinny doesn’t sell.”
Pick up the latest edition of Vogue featuring Lady Gaga on the cover and notice how tall and curvaceous she appears with a cinched waist and prominent bust and hips, a noticeable difference from the behind-the-scenes photo shoot video which appears on the fashion magazine’s website.
The mag did not respond to a request for comment.
Yes bountiful busts and backsides are back, even if they don't come naturally.
“The bootylicious-ness of the Beyonce, the J-Lo, and the Kim Kardashian effect is contagious, and Hollywood runs things more than models nowadays. It is definitely not about make-me-look skinny, it is make me look sexy and curvy. And we’re also seeing a trend in cleavage,” explained top celebrity stylist, Phillip Bloch. “(Airbrushing) is happening in several other parts of the body too. They want toned arms, and fuller faces.”
Leading model manager and publicist Nadja Atwal is very familiar with the growing practice of body plumping prior to print
“These poor girls (models) have been forced to lose the very curves that the general public wants in order to find a woman attractive," she said. "So when you do a sexier shoot with a skinnier girl, you have got to basically add volume via retouching where there is no volume in reality.”
Called “reverse retouching,” this practice first came under scrutiny in 2010 when Jane Druker, the editor of Healthy magazine in England, admitted that the cover girl arrived at the shoot looking “really thin and unwell.” But rather than being sent home and another model hired, the publication instead chose to retouch the model to look larger, in keeping with the publication’s dedication to “healthy” faces and figures.
The art director for health and fitness-orientated magazine SELF also confessed that models are retouched to look bigger and healthier, essentially faking fitness. In addition, former Cosmopolitan editor Leah Hardy admitted that during her reign at the magazine, bulk was added to models during post-production, and even the editor of British Vogue, Alexandra Shulman, revealed that she often has had to ask photographers to specifically make models not look so skinny.
And magazines aren’t the only offenders. Movie marketers do it too. Itty bitty actress Keira Knightley dared speak out in disgust over the posters for her film “King Arthur” after it was obvious that her bust has been digitally enhanced in a pretty “big” way.
“Publications will do whatever they think will make something sell. If curvier models are in, models will be airbrushed to appear curvy,” noted body image expert Sarah Maria. “The fashion and entertainment industry is interested in what sells, plain and simple.”
However, is adding weight with the click of a button, as opposed to subtracting it, really a step in the right direction in terms of promoting healthy body image?
According to Jena la Flamme, founder of Pleasurable Weight Loss and a staunch champion of healthy body image, this form of digital dishonesty is just as detrimental as selectively slimming.
“The practice of airbrushing models, whether to make them look bigger and bustier or smaller and thinner, reflects poorly on the fashion industry. These techniques are all about creating an illusion and distorting reality,” she explained. “It sets a bad example for women watching these celebrities because now they are vulnerable to comparing themselves to highly manipulated photo art, not a real photo of a real person. Though the photos aren’t real, they have a real and tangible negative effect on women who, bombarded by these images, are led to feel they aren’t meeting up to the standards of beauty.”
One fashion industry insider said the airbrushing controversy was being overblown, and that women in magazines have fuller figures because photo editors are leaving their computer tools alone. “(Magazines) generally are not airbrushing as much. That is their natural figure,” the source said.
So real or digitized, skinny is out, and curvy is in.
“It is helpful they are airbrushing images to look healthier, but why not just use healthier women and save yourself the hassle? Society is ready for change,” said former model turned filmmaker Nicole Clark. “I’m sure actresses and models would love to start eating healthier and feel more energetic.”
Tuesday, August 21, 2012
Men's fashion labels in court over accusations of copy-cat clothing
Men's fashion labels in court over accusations of copy-cat clothing
Two leading Australian men’s fashion labels have gone head to head in the Federal Court over accusations of copy-cat clothing.
Menswear brand Calibre claims rival label Politix, which has Harry Kewell as its face, "took too much inspiration" from a blue shirt in its summer 2010 range and is selling its own version as part of its current collection.
Following mediation, Calibre says Politix has agreed to destroy all remaining stock from the shelves.
Calibre general manager Andrew Petersen says he was compelled to take legal action against Politix in the Federal Court after discovering three shirts available for sale in Politix stores in late 2011 and early 2012 that were overwhelmingly similar to registered Calibre designs.
“Calibre has a proud history in the Australian fashion industry and we have worked hard to build our successful reputation over the past 23 years,” Petersen says.
“We are proactive in registering our original designs and are not afraid to take action where necessary in order to protect our intellectual property rights. We are very pleased with the outcome in this matter against Politix.”
Politix denies it has infringed copyright.
“Politix continues to deny any infringement. Calibre discontinued its court action with no court orders and each party agreed to pay their own costs,” a spokesperson says.
Two leading Australian men’s fashion labels have gone head to head in the Federal Court over accusations of copy-cat clothing.
Menswear brand Calibre claims rival label Politix, which has Harry Kewell as its face, "took too much inspiration" from a blue shirt in its summer 2010 range and is selling its own version as part of its current collection.
Following mediation, Calibre says Politix has agreed to destroy all remaining stock from the shelves.
Calibre general manager Andrew Petersen says he was compelled to take legal action against Politix in the Federal Court after discovering three shirts available for sale in Politix stores in late 2011 and early 2012 that were overwhelmingly similar to registered Calibre designs.
“Calibre has a proud history in the Australian fashion industry and we have worked hard to build our successful reputation over the past 23 years,” Petersen says.
“We are proactive in registering our original designs and are not afraid to take action where necessary in order to protect our intellectual property rights. We are very pleased with the outcome in this matter against Politix.”
Politix denies it has infringed copyright.
“Politix continues to deny any infringement. Calibre discontinued its court action with no court orders and each party agreed to pay their own costs,” a spokesperson says.
Monday, August 20, 2012
American fashion retailer Hollister gets ready to drop in on the local surfwear market
American fashion retailer Hollister gets ready to drop in on the local surfwear market
American fashion retailer Hollister, part of Abercrombie & Fitch, is joining the long list of international retailers headed to Australia with plans to open its first store here next year.
Mike Jeffries, chief executive of Abercrombie & Fitch, revealed the plans for the first Hollister stores in Australia and the Middle East during the annual earnings conference call for the retail giant.
Hollister now has 28 stores in the UK, 12 in Canada and 17 in Germany with plans to open 20 more international stores in 2013.
Jeffries said the rollout is still at an early stage.
"We are focused on underpenetrated markets where we expect minimal cannibalisation," he said.
Overall, Jeffries said Abercrombie & Fitch's results were "disappointing" and cited "cannibalisation" as a key concern where Abercrombie & Fitch flagship store, standard stores and Hollister stores cannibalise each other's sales.
In contrast, Jeffries sees Australia as an untapped market for Hollister as Abercrombie & Fitch has not yet opened in Australia despite reports of the brand scouting for locations here.
"We are confident that the return from investment on our international rollout to date has been superior to any other allocation of capital over that period," Jeffries said.
New stores opened in 2012 by the Abercrombie & Fitch group are expected to contribute $200 million in sales growth.
Hollister has yearly sales of $485.6 million and offers cheaper and more youth orientated fashion than Abercrombie & Fitch.
Named after a city in California, the retailer stocks surfer style fashions, making it a competitor to local surfwear retailers such as Billabong and Rip Curl.
Hollister has been steadily taking its model global by opening stores in Europe and Canada. Its biggest international push has been into Britain where it has 27 stores, followed by 13 in Germany and nine in Spain. It has also opened a Hollister in China.
While Hollister is likely to be the first store in the Abercrombie & Fitch group to reach Australia, it follows behind other international retailers, including Top Shop, Zara and Gap.
In a report into the retail sector published earlier this year, Morgan Stanley predicted that global apparel brands, Zara, GAP, Topshop/Topman, H&M, Uniqlo, Victoria's Secret, Abercrombie & Fitch, and Forever 21 were likely to have 182 potential stores in Australia by 2016, delivering $1.9 billion in sales or 6% market share of the apparel market.
American fashion retailer Hollister, part of Abercrombie & Fitch, is joining the long list of international retailers headed to Australia with plans to open its first store here next year.
Mike Jeffries, chief executive of Abercrombie & Fitch, revealed the plans for the first Hollister stores in Australia and the Middle East during the annual earnings conference call for the retail giant.
Hollister now has 28 stores in the UK, 12 in Canada and 17 in Germany with plans to open 20 more international stores in 2013.
Jeffries said the rollout is still at an early stage.
"We are focused on underpenetrated markets where we expect minimal cannibalisation," he said.
Overall, Jeffries said Abercrombie & Fitch's results were "disappointing" and cited "cannibalisation" as a key concern where Abercrombie & Fitch flagship store, standard stores and Hollister stores cannibalise each other's sales.
In contrast, Jeffries sees Australia as an untapped market for Hollister as Abercrombie & Fitch has not yet opened in Australia despite reports of the brand scouting for locations here.
"We are confident that the return from investment on our international rollout to date has been superior to any other allocation of capital over that period," Jeffries said.
New stores opened in 2012 by the Abercrombie & Fitch group are expected to contribute $200 million in sales growth.
Hollister has yearly sales of $485.6 million and offers cheaper and more youth orientated fashion than Abercrombie & Fitch.
Named after a city in California, the retailer stocks surfer style fashions, making it a competitor to local surfwear retailers such as Billabong and Rip Curl.
Hollister has been steadily taking its model global by opening stores in Europe and Canada. Its biggest international push has been into Britain where it has 27 stores, followed by 13 in Germany and nine in Spain. It has also opened a Hollister in China.
While Hollister is likely to be the first store in the Abercrombie & Fitch group to reach Australia, it follows behind other international retailers, including Top Shop, Zara and Gap.
In a report into the retail sector published earlier this year, Morgan Stanley predicted that global apparel brands, Zara, GAP, Topshop/Topman, H&M, Uniqlo, Victoria's Secret, Abercrombie & Fitch, and Forever 21 were likely to have 182 potential stores in Australia by 2016, delivering $1.9 billion in sales or 6% market share of the apparel market.
Friday, August 17, 2012
The flame sees fashion on fire
The flame sees fashion on fire
The golden Olympic statistic was, of course, Team GB's medal haul, but the Games have produced some pretty fascinating fashion figures, too. First, despite its best efforts to ring-fence the event with Stella McCartney's by-the-end generally adored Team GB kit, adidas didn't have everything its own way. A total of 162 medals - 60 of them gold - were won by athletes sporting arch rival Nike's gear. And in the Olympic stadium, 68 of the 103 track-and-field medals awarded went to competitors shod in the American company's impossible-to- miss "Volt" luminous yellow running shoes.
During the Games, adidas says that its Oxford Street store saw an 82 per cent boost in customers and "performed better than any other adidas store globally at any time". It added: "Each time a GB athlete wins a gold medal, the trend is for at least a 200 per cent increase in sales of the replica object worn by that athlete."
Unashamedly not-for-sports fashion companies have enjoyed an Olympics boost, too. Jane Shepherdson, the CEO of Whistles, says the positive spin-off has been twofold. "We've seen customers going for relaxed luxury, with a nod to the track. Silk crepe trousers with a drawstring waist worn with a leather Varsity jacket - for which we have a waiting list already - and our limited-edition jogging bottoms and sweatshirts reworked into supersoft leather, silk and cashmere."
READ: Ready For Her Close-Up: Kim Sears
The second factor owed everything to Kim Sears, who watched her boyfriend Andy Murray beat Roger Federer in a £150 stretch-silk "Jocelyn Luna" print Whistles dress. "It's sold out online twice," says Shepherdson.
But what will the lasting legacy be? Will the national Olympics-inspired run on sportswear be followed up by a nationwide increase in actual running? Or will all those freshly purchased elasticated waists get their sole exercise on the country's sofas?
FIFTY SHADES OF SCHMUTTER
It's already quite disconcerting: there I am on the Tube, surrounded by women wantonly engrossed in erotic fiction. But Fifty Shades of Grey is the pulp-porn phenomenon that refuses to hang up its hand-cuffs for that long-overdue cigarette break. For Britain's fruitiest fictional franchise is making fresh advances - on fashion.
Yes, you might have read the books, but soon you'll be able buy the nipple-clamp T-shirt to go with them.
"Interest in the Fifty Shades of Grey licence has been extraordinary," declared the agent who claims to have sold the rights to produce "high-end, quality" fashion ranges based on E L James's 40 million-selling trilogy of knicker-based novels.
It seems we have Fifty Shades hoodies, T-shirts, hosiery, underwear, daywear, loungewear and sleepwear to look forward to. How wearing.
If all those female heavy breathers on the Underground decide to wear "erotic fashion" whilst devouring tales of depravity, I shall have to start commuting by bicycle.
The golden Olympic statistic was, of course, Team GB's medal haul, but the Games have produced some pretty fascinating fashion figures, too. First, despite its best efforts to ring-fence the event with Stella McCartney's by-the-end generally adored Team GB kit, adidas didn't have everything its own way. A total of 162 medals - 60 of them gold - were won by athletes sporting arch rival Nike's gear. And in the Olympic stadium, 68 of the 103 track-and-field medals awarded went to competitors shod in the American company's impossible-to- miss "Volt" luminous yellow running shoes.
During the Games, adidas says that its Oxford Street store saw an 82 per cent boost in customers and "performed better than any other adidas store globally at any time". It added: "Each time a GB athlete wins a gold medal, the trend is for at least a 200 per cent increase in sales of the replica object worn by that athlete."
Unashamedly not-for-sports fashion companies have enjoyed an Olympics boost, too. Jane Shepherdson, the CEO of Whistles, says the positive spin-off has been twofold. "We've seen customers going for relaxed luxury, with a nod to the track. Silk crepe trousers with a drawstring waist worn with a leather Varsity jacket - for which we have a waiting list already - and our limited-edition jogging bottoms and sweatshirts reworked into supersoft leather, silk and cashmere."
READ: Ready For Her Close-Up: Kim Sears
The second factor owed everything to Kim Sears, who watched her boyfriend Andy Murray beat Roger Federer in a £150 stretch-silk "Jocelyn Luna" print Whistles dress. "It's sold out online twice," says Shepherdson.
But what will the lasting legacy be? Will the national Olympics-inspired run on sportswear be followed up by a nationwide increase in actual running? Or will all those freshly purchased elasticated waists get their sole exercise on the country's sofas?
FIFTY SHADES OF SCHMUTTER
It's already quite disconcerting: there I am on the Tube, surrounded by women wantonly engrossed in erotic fiction. But Fifty Shades of Grey is the pulp-porn phenomenon that refuses to hang up its hand-cuffs for that long-overdue cigarette break. For Britain's fruitiest fictional franchise is making fresh advances - on fashion.
Yes, you might have read the books, but soon you'll be able buy the nipple-clamp T-shirt to go with them.
"Interest in the Fifty Shades of Grey licence has been extraordinary," declared the agent who claims to have sold the rights to produce "high-end, quality" fashion ranges based on E L James's 40 million-selling trilogy of knicker-based novels.
It seems we have Fifty Shades hoodies, T-shirts, hosiery, underwear, daywear, loungewear and sleepwear to look forward to. How wearing.
If all those female heavy breathers on the Underground decide to wear "erotic fashion" whilst devouring tales of depravity, I shall have to start commuting by bicycle.
Thursday, August 16, 2012
Fashion Action Struts Its Way Into Videogames
Fashion Action Struts Its Way Into Videogames
The developers of a new videogame set in the fashion world believe there is a gap in their industry: action games with feminine appeal.
Their offering is called "Fashion Hazard," a game in which high-fashion models dodge obstacles, and each other, as they prance down runways in New York, London, Milan and Paris. The game comes from the two-year-old Interactive Product Group unit of Condé Nast, the publisher of magazines including Vogue, Glamour and GQ.
The group didn't set out to design videogames, but Juliana Stock, the unit's senior director of product and business development, got the idea last year as she watched her tween-age daughter avidly play "Temple Run." That popular videogame is a high-octane chase, where Indiana Jones-style characters are pursued after stealing artifacts from an ancient temple. The chase course reminded Ms. Stock's team of a fashion runway and voilà, "Fashion Hazard" was on its way. The app comes out Thursday on iTunes for iPhones and iPads, priced at 99 cents, and will be released later for Android and other formats.
A Hollywood pitch for "Fashion Hazard" might run along the lines of "Bourne Identity Meets Fashion Week." Players climb to higher levels, unlocking pieces of the models' personal stories, which include humble origins, a love triangle and ultimate success.
Unlike many fashion games, players don't dress the models or primp them backstage. The action, which is far slower than the breakneck pace of "Temple Run," is all on the runway. This can be a hazardous place, rife with models who trip each other and obstacles that are highly unlikely to ever actually appear on a runway: cobras and flying caffe lattes that splatter on the screen.
The idea is to blend action with girlish passions. "A lot of [popular] games have a male aesthetic. You're a juvenile delinquent, you're Indiana Jones," says Ms. Stock. Girls' games often involve making cake, slicing fruit, or dressing dolls. "I felt that's a weird message for girls."
Girls and women make up nearly half of gamers today, according to the Entertainment Software Association industry group, and women over 18 are one of the fastest-growing gaming segments—in part because they're newer to games than boys and men. In 2011, $16.6 billion worth of games were sold in the U.S., according to NPD Group. About one-third of gamers are under 18.
Women's penchant for a narrative is why "Fashion Hazard" includes a story line for each model at the same time that it ratchets the action up as the game progresses. And it is why the game brings the story to a conclusion rather than using the "endless runner" model of many games.
Interactive Product Group's role is to develop new businesses separate from Condé Nast's current operations, but might later augment them or lead to new strategies. The group previously helped develop an iPad presentation app called Idea Flight.
Many women and girls prefer action games yet are turned off by masculine-viewpoint imagery, says Sheri Graner Ray, studio design director for Schell Games in Austin, Texas, and author of the 2003 book, "Gender Inclusive Game Design: Expanding The Market."
Ms. Ray says games often reflect the people creating them. Only 11% of game developers are women. "Young, white, straight, able-bodied males" dominate the field, she says. Ms. Ray, who worked on the popular "Star Wars Galaxies" game, says she often encourages development teams to use less sexualized imagery to avoid alienating potential female consumers. Women also enjoy violent games, she says, if there is a logical reason for violence in the narrative.
"Fashion Hazard" is meant to make a profit, not advertise Condé Nast's fashion publications. Besides the purchase price, upgrades, ringtones, and "model packs" with new models will be sold midgame. One model pack includes an African-American male model named Rob Capo, whose bio says, "Rob was an All-American athlete….Modeling is just a steppingstone to his real aspiration: acting." The first female model that comes with the game is named Ellie. She's from Kansas and dreams of making it big in modeling. The group also is hoping to attract product placements in the game from fashion and retail brands.
Is the game a game-changer for girls? My 10-year-old daughter, Saskia, enjoyed the game, and particularly liked making it to the ultimate runway, Paris. But she said she still prefers "Temple Run" and other non-girlish games. She was confused by the flying coffees—"I just got hit with something," she said. But she preferred "Fashion Hazard" to other fashion games she has played. "My other fashion games are like, run a store," she said with an eye roll.
The developers of a new videogame set in the fashion world believe there is a gap in their industry: action games with feminine appeal.
Their offering is called "Fashion Hazard," a game in which high-fashion models dodge obstacles, and each other, as they prance down runways in New York, London, Milan and Paris. The game comes from the two-year-old Interactive Product Group unit of Condé Nast, the publisher of magazines including Vogue, Glamour and GQ.
The group didn't set out to design videogames, but Juliana Stock, the unit's senior director of product and business development, got the idea last year as she watched her tween-age daughter avidly play "Temple Run." That popular videogame is a high-octane chase, where Indiana Jones-style characters are pursued after stealing artifacts from an ancient temple. The chase course reminded Ms. Stock's team of a fashion runway and voilà, "Fashion Hazard" was on its way. The app comes out Thursday on iTunes for iPhones and iPads, priced at 99 cents, and will be released later for Android and other formats.
A Hollywood pitch for "Fashion Hazard" might run along the lines of "Bourne Identity Meets Fashion Week." Players climb to higher levels, unlocking pieces of the models' personal stories, which include humble origins, a love triangle and ultimate success.
Unlike many fashion games, players don't dress the models or primp them backstage. The action, which is far slower than the breakneck pace of "Temple Run," is all on the runway. This can be a hazardous place, rife with models who trip each other and obstacles that are highly unlikely to ever actually appear on a runway: cobras and flying caffe lattes that splatter on the screen.
The idea is to blend action with girlish passions. "A lot of [popular] games have a male aesthetic. You're a juvenile delinquent, you're Indiana Jones," says Ms. Stock. Girls' games often involve making cake, slicing fruit, or dressing dolls. "I felt that's a weird message for girls."
Girls and women make up nearly half of gamers today, according to the Entertainment Software Association industry group, and women over 18 are one of the fastest-growing gaming segments—in part because they're newer to games than boys and men. In 2011, $16.6 billion worth of games were sold in the U.S., according to NPD Group. About one-third of gamers are under 18.
Women's penchant for a narrative is why "Fashion Hazard" includes a story line for each model at the same time that it ratchets the action up as the game progresses. And it is why the game brings the story to a conclusion rather than using the "endless runner" model of many games.
Interactive Product Group's role is to develop new businesses separate from Condé Nast's current operations, but might later augment them or lead to new strategies. The group previously helped develop an iPad presentation app called Idea Flight.
Many women and girls prefer action games yet are turned off by masculine-viewpoint imagery, says Sheri Graner Ray, studio design director for Schell Games in Austin, Texas, and author of the 2003 book, "Gender Inclusive Game Design: Expanding The Market."
Ms. Ray says games often reflect the people creating them. Only 11% of game developers are women. "Young, white, straight, able-bodied males" dominate the field, she says. Ms. Ray, who worked on the popular "Star Wars Galaxies" game, says she often encourages development teams to use less sexualized imagery to avoid alienating potential female consumers. Women also enjoy violent games, she says, if there is a logical reason for violence in the narrative.
"Fashion Hazard" is meant to make a profit, not advertise Condé Nast's fashion publications. Besides the purchase price, upgrades, ringtones, and "model packs" with new models will be sold midgame. One model pack includes an African-American male model named Rob Capo, whose bio says, "Rob was an All-American athlete….Modeling is just a steppingstone to his real aspiration: acting." The first female model that comes with the game is named Ellie. She's from Kansas and dreams of making it big in modeling. The group also is hoping to attract product placements in the game from fashion and retail brands.
Is the game a game-changer for girls? My 10-year-old daughter, Saskia, enjoyed the game, and particularly liked making it to the ultimate runway, Paris. But she said she still prefers "Temple Run" and other non-girlish games. She was confused by the flying coffees—"I just got hit with something," she said. But she preferred "Fashion Hazard" to other fashion games she has played. "My other fashion games are like, run a store," she said with an eye roll.
Wednesday, August 15, 2012
'Ignored' men now in fashion online
'Ignored' men now in fashion online
Men have been the "ignored" demographic of the online shopping boom but research indicating blokes are embracing e-commerce more vigorously than women has seen an explosion in Australian men's shopping sites.
Details By Sven curates a revolving top 100 of Australian designed gifts and accessories for men. InStitchu and Vinspi offer tailored suits and shirts for a fraction you'd pay off-the-rack. Minor Detail specialises in men's fashion and lifestyle accessories, while Svbscription sends themed parcels of "curated products and experiences to your door".
Between 2007 and 2011 the average male increased his online spend from $180 a month to $242. In the same period women's online spending dropped from $179 a month to $165.
Even unisex web stores like The Iconic and Young Republic are increasingly targeting men. The former promises delivery within three hours for Sydney addresses.
"I do feel men have been somewhat ignored in e-commerce in the past," said Details By Sven founder Luke Ryan, who was inspired by US sites like manpacks.com and owenandfred.com.
"We feel that with the growth of e-commerce and mobile commerce, and the fact that blokes generally dislike the concept [of] in-store shopping, that we can solve a problem."
Australian men spend a third more each month on online purchases than women, according to a study released in September last year by Swinburne University of Technology's ARC Centre of Excellence for Creative Industries and Innovation.
The research, conducted by Swinburne research fellow Scott Ewing, shows that between 2007 and 2011 the average male increased his online spend from $180 a month to $242. In the same period women's online spending dropped from $179 a month to $165.
Ewing said in a phone interview that men were more comfortable buying more expensive items like gadgets online and they were more price sensitive. But he said there had also been a "flight to quality" online as men had become more concerned about fashion.
"Men are more and more buying that kind of clothing whereas women of course they've always done that," said Ewing.
"We did our first survey in 2007 and then another one in 2009 and another one in 2011 and what we found that was kind of weird or interesting is at the start men and women's shopping patterns looked much the same and men actually grew more than women over the period. "
By 2009 men were spending 17 per cent more than women on internet purchases and this grew to 46 per cent in 2011.
He said that without wanting to get bogged down in gender stereotypes women tended to value the "social experience of shopping that will probably never go away" and women may prefer to feel the product before buying. Men on a Saturday afternoon "are more likely to say 'let's go to the football'.'"
Research released by digital marketing firm iProspect claims 70 per cent of "affluent" men prefer to research and buy online.
Sydney-based InStitchu founders James Wakefield and Robin McGowan, who went to school together and pursued finance careers before joining the start-up fray, said the huge savings one could make by flying to Asia and ordering a tailored suit created an obvious opportunity for an online store.
InStitchu sells fully customisable suits for between $299 and $599 and shirts for $59. The customer enters their measurements online and the clothes are produced in Shanghai before arriving at the customer's door about 3 weeks later. Wakefield and McGowan claim some pricey well-known "made in Italy" brands are actually made in the same factory as their gear.
"When we were trying to find the supplier we had a wardrobe full of about 30 suits from suppliers in Thailand, Vietnam, India, Philippines, China - we started working with one based out of Thailand but the consistency wasn't there," said Wakefield.
If you know your current measurements buying a suit online is easy but not so much if you don't. InStitchu is moving around this by opening "pop up" stores in cafes after operating hours, doing group bookings in offices, inviting customers to its own office in Sydney's CBD and placing video instructions on its site showing people how to measure themselves.
"Three years ago the chance of a guy willing to go on to a website, design his own shirt and enter his measurements and order online - I think that would've been a paretty hard sells, but now guys are more accustomed," said Wakefield.
McGowan adds: "We're targeting guys who hate going to the shops, who hate dealing with sales clerks; they can literally just do it in the office and it takes them 10 minutes or 15 minutes and they know exactly what they're going to get, plus it's convenience as the package gets delivered to your office."
They've sold about 1300 suits so far but are looking to raise capital now in order to do more marketing, tap new markets like the wedding market and also open up small stores where customers can get measured. They also want to expand beyond suits into other clothing and accessories.
"My prediction is that a lot of the big online players will take over the retail space - Amazon have started doing it in the States, not as a shop but as a showroom of their products," said McGowan. "I think that's probably where it will go."
This is already starting to happen in Australia, with online custom shoes store for women Shoes of Prey revealing plans recently to open two retail premises.
Men have been the "ignored" demographic of the online shopping boom but research indicating blokes are embracing e-commerce more vigorously than women has seen an explosion in Australian men's shopping sites.
Details By Sven curates a revolving top 100 of Australian designed gifts and accessories for men. InStitchu and Vinspi offer tailored suits and shirts for a fraction you'd pay off-the-rack. Minor Detail specialises in men's fashion and lifestyle accessories, while Svbscription sends themed parcels of "curated products and experiences to your door".
Between 2007 and 2011 the average male increased his online spend from $180 a month to $242. In the same period women's online spending dropped from $179 a month to $165.
Even unisex web stores like The Iconic and Young Republic are increasingly targeting men. The former promises delivery within three hours for Sydney addresses.
"I do feel men have been somewhat ignored in e-commerce in the past," said Details By Sven founder Luke Ryan, who was inspired by US sites like manpacks.com and owenandfred.com.
"We feel that with the growth of e-commerce and mobile commerce, and the fact that blokes generally dislike the concept [of] in-store shopping, that we can solve a problem."
Australian men spend a third more each month on online purchases than women, according to a study released in September last year by Swinburne University of Technology's ARC Centre of Excellence for Creative Industries and Innovation.
The research, conducted by Swinburne research fellow Scott Ewing, shows that between 2007 and 2011 the average male increased his online spend from $180 a month to $242. In the same period women's online spending dropped from $179 a month to $165.
Ewing said in a phone interview that men were more comfortable buying more expensive items like gadgets online and they were more price sensitive. But he said there had also been a "flight to quality" online as men had become more concerned about fashion.
"Men are more and more buying that kind of clothing whereas women of course they've always done that," said Ewing.
"We did our first survey in 2007 and then another one in 2009 and another one in 2011 and what we found that was kind of weird or interesting is at the start men and women's shopping patterns looked much the same and men actually grew more than women over the period. "
By 2009 men were spending 17 per cent more than women on internet purchases and this grew to 46 per cent in 2011.
He said that without wanting to get bogged down in gender stereotypes women tended to value the "social experience of shopping that will probably never go away" and women may prefer to feel the product before buying. Men on a Saturday afternoon "are more likely to say 'let's go to the football'.'"
Research released by digital marketing firm iProspect claims 70 per cent of "affluent" men prefer to research and buy online.
Sydney-based InStitchu founders James Wakefield and Robin McGowan, who went to school together and pursued finance careers before joining the start-up fray, said the huge savings one could make by flying to Asia and ordering a tailored suit created an obvious opportunity for an online store.
InStitchu sells fully customisable suits for between $299 and $599 and shirts for $59. The customer enters their measurements online and the clothes are produced in Shanghai before arriving at the customer's door about 3 weeks later. Wakefield and McGowan claim some pricey well-known "made in Italy" brands are actually made in the same factory as their gear.
"When we were trying to find the supplier we had a wardrobe full of about 30 suits from suppliers in Thailand, Vietnam, India, Philippines, China - we started working with one based out of Thailand but the consistency wasn't there," said Wakefield.
If you know your current measurements buying a suit online is easy but not so much if you don't. InStitchu is moving around this by opening "pop up" stores in cafes after operating hours, doing group bookings in offices, inviting customers to its own office in Sydney's CBD and placing video instructions on its site showing people how to measure themselves.
"Three years ago the chance of a guy willing to go on to a website, design his own shirt and enter his measurements and order online - I think that would've been a paretty hard sells, but now guys are more accustomed," said Wakefield.
McGowan adds: "We're targeting guys who hate going to the shops, who hate dealing with sales clerks; they can literally just do it in the office and it takes them 10 minutes or 15 minutes and they know exactly what they're going to get, plus it's convenience as the package gets delivered to your office."
They've sold about 1300 suits so far but are looking to raise capital now in order to do more marketing, tap new markets like the wedding market and also open up small stores where customers can get measured. They also want to expand beyond suits into other clothing and accessories.
"My prediction is that a lot of the big online players will take over the retail space - Amazon have started doing it in the States, not as a shop but as a showroom of their products," said McGowan. "I think that's probably where it will go."
This is already starting to happen in Australia, with online custom shoes store for women Shoes of Prey revealing plans recently to open two retail premises.
Tuesday, August 14, 2012
News/Kim Kardashian Covers New York Magazine's Fall Fashion Issue
News/Kim Kardashian Covers New York Magazine's Fall Fashion Issue
Fall fashion magazine time is special.
Sooo special that we draw the curtains and pour ourselves a tall glass of scotch so we can mentally prepare for all of the money we'll be spending on the latest and upcoming trends.
Color us surprised, then, when we broke the plastic on New York magazine's fashion issue only to find that the hottest trend for fall is…Kim Kardashian's face.
The E! star pulses off of the cover in a halo of mood lighting as the tag to her left reads, "Does Kim Kardashian belong on the cover of a fashion magazine?"
Well, apparently she does, and we can imagine a few reasons why. Some being that she co-owns Dash boutique with sisters Kourtney Kardashian and Khloé Kardashian Odom, has clothing lines through Sears and QVC, a nail polish line called Kardashian Kolors, cofounded ShoeDazzle, and has graced the covers of such fashion mags as l'Uomo Vogue and Harper's Bazaar.
Those are just a few reasons why she'd be on the cover, if we had to guess!
See Kim Kardashian channeling Sophia Loren in a new photo shoot!
In the magazine itself, Kim wears a beaded Valentino long-sleeved gown and dishes about her relationship with beau Kanye West. "When this whole life is done, and it's just the two of us sitting somewhere when we're 80, you want to have things to talk about that you have in common," Kim says.
She also discusses her future fashion plans, "I don't really have goals as far as, I want to be on a cover or something like that. I think my goals are more just expanding my line, and having my line be really successful. That's the ultimate goal, I think, for me."
Fall fashion magazine time is special.
Sooo special that we draw the curtains and pour ourselves a tall glass of scotch so we can mentally prepare for all of the money we'll be spending on the latest and upcoming trends.
Color us surprised, then, when we broke the plastic on New York magazine's fashion issue only to find that the hottest trend for fall is…Kim Kardashian's face.
The E! star pulses off of the cover in a halo of mood lighting as the tag to her left reads, "Does Kim Kardashian belong on the cover of a fashion magazine?"
Well, apparently she does, and we can imagine a few reasons why. Some being that she co-owns Dash boutique with sisters Kourtney Kardashian and Khloé Kardashian Odom, has clothing lines through Sears and QVC, a nail polish line called Kardashian Kolors, cofounded ShoeDazzle, and has graced the covers of such fashion mags as l'Uomo Vogue and Harper's Bazaar.
Those are just a few reasons why she'd be on the cover, if we had to guess!
See Kim Kardashian channeling Sophia Loren in a new photo shoot!
In the magazine itself, Kim wears a beaded Valentino long-sleeved gown and dishes about her relationship with beau Kanye West. "When this whole life is done, and it's just the two of us sitting somewhere when we're 80, you want to have things to talk about that you have in common," Kim says.
She also discusses her future fashion plans, "I don't really have goals as far as, I want to be on a cover or something like that. I think my goals are more just expanding my line, and having my line be really successful. That's the ultimate goal, I think, for me."
Monday, August 13, 2012
McIlroy wins PGA Championship in record fashion
McIlroy wins PGA Championship in record fashion
The 23-year-old McIlroy, who started the final round with a three-shot lead, needed only 23 putts as he carded a flawless six-under-par 66 that gave him a 13-under total of 275 in the year’s last major.
The world number three sank a 20-foot putt from just off the green to birdie the par-four 18th in glorious late afternoon sunshine at Kiawah Island Golf Resort, then lifted his putter skywards in celebration.
“I don’t think I have let it sink in yet but it was a great round of golf,” the mop-haired Northern Irishman said after being presented with the Wanamaker Trophy. “I am speechless.
“It’s been an incredible week. I had a good feeling about it at the start and I never imagined to do this.”
His victory margin eclipsed the previous best set by golfing great Jack Nicklaus at the 1980 PGA Championship in Oak Hill and underlined his burgeoning status as heir apparent to former world number one Tiger Woods.
McIlroy, who clinched last year’s US Open at Congressional by a staggering eight shots, rattled up six birdies in a bogey-free display and will regain the number one spot when the world rankings are issued on Monday.
Britain’s David Lynn, competing in his first PGA Championship, birdied two of the last three holes for a 68 to finish alone in second.
SIZZLING START
Fellow Englishman Poulter, who briefly trimmed McIlroy’s lead to one shot after a sizzling five-birdie start, faded after the turn en route to a 69 and a tie for third at four under.
Level with Poulter were his compatriot Justin Rose (66), Swede Carl Pettersson (72) and defending champion Keegan Bradley of the United States (68).
Pettersson, despite being slapped with a two-stroke penalty for grounding his club in a hazard on the first hole, responded well with three birdies in five holes before coming unstuck like so many others on the more difficult back nine.
Four-times champion Woods, hunting his 14th major crown but his first in over four years, had to settle for a share of 11th place at two under after signing off with a 72.
Woods, who had been tied for the lead heading into the weekend for a second time in the last three majors, said he had ultimately paid the price for a relaxed strategy going into the third round where he bogeyed four of his first eight holes.
“I was right there ... but I came out with probably the wrong attitude yesterday,” the American world number two told reporters after offsetting two birdies with two bogeys in the final round.
“And I was too relaxed, and tried to enjoy it, and that’s not how I play. I play intense and full systems go. That cost me.”
Woods, however, paid tribute to McIlroy who he has long regarded as a player of uncommon talent.
“He’s very good,” he said. “He’s got all the talent in the world to do what he’s doing. And this is the way that Rory can play. When he gets it going, it’s pretty impressive to watch.”
The 23-year-old McIlroy, who started the final round with a three-shot lead, needed only 23 putts as he carded a flawless six-under-par 66 that gave him a 13-under total of 275 in the year’s last major.
The world number three sank a 20-foot putt from just off the green to birdie the par-four 18th in glorious late afternoon sunshine at Kiawah Island Golf Resort, then lifted his putter skywards in celebration.
“I don’t think I have let it sink in yet but it was a great round of golf,” the mop-haired Northern Irishman said after being presented with the Wanamaker Trophy. “I am speechless.
“It’s been an incredible week. I had a good feeling about it at the start and I never imagined to do this.”
His victory margin eclipsed the previous best set by golfing great Jack Nicklaus at the 1980 PGA Championship in Oak Hill and underlined his burgeoning status as heir apparent to former world number one Tiger Woods.
McIlroy, who clinched last year’s US Open at Congressional by a staggering eight shots, rattled up six birdies in a bogey-free display and will regain the number one spot when the world rankings are issued on Monday.
Britain’s David Lynn, competing in his first PGA Championship, birdied two of the last three holes for a 68 to finish alone in second.
SIZZLING START
Fellow Englishman Poulter, who briefly trimmed McIlroy’s lead to one shot after a sizzling five-birdie start, faded after the turn en route to a 69 and a tie for third at four under.
Level with Poulter were his compatriot Justin Rose (66), Swede Carl Pettersson (72) and defending champion Keegan Bradley of the United States (68).
Pettersson, despite being slapped with a two-stroke penalty for grounding his club in a hazard on the first hole, responded well with three birdies in five holes before coming unstuck like so many others on the more difficult back nine.
Four-times champion Woods, hunting his 14th major crown but his first in over four years, had to settle for a share of 11th place at two under after signing off with a 72.
Woods, who had been tied for the lead heading into the weekend for a second time in the last three majors, said he had ultimately paid the price for a relaxed strategy going into the third round where he bogeyed four of his first eight holes.
“I was right there ... but I came out with probably the wrong attitude yesterday,” the American world number two told reporters after offsetting two birdies with two bogeys in the final round.
“And I was too relaxed, and tried to enjoy it, and that’s not how I play. I play intense and full systems go. That cost me.”
Woods, however, paid tribute to McIlroy who he has long regarded as a player of uncommon talent.
“He’s very good,” he said. “He’s got all the talent in the world to do what he’s doing. And this is the way that Rory can play. When he gets it going, it’s pretty impressive to watch.”
Friday, August 10, 2012
Fashion no longer a spectator sport for middle class: Book
Fashion no longer a spectator sport for middle class: Book
Fashion, once considered a field of unequal opportunities for decades has now moved far ahead from being the playground of rich and famous and has become the biggest talk of the middle class right from Nagaland to Punjab, says a new book.
Even though Bollywood is the face of Indian fashion industry yet its alter ego lies in middle class Indian weddings is the essence of "Powder Room - An untold story of Indian Fashion" written by Shefalee Vasudev.
After being a fashion journalist for over a decade Shefali describes her book as "an untold story of Indian fashion because it involves intimate confessions from Fashion industry stalwarts like Tarun Tahilani and Sabyaschi to new models like Harmeet Bajaj. The confessions involved are more of self depreciation".
She adds, "I did not want the readers as well as the people in industry to feel that I presumably became the judge of the industry as I was sitting on the other side. So I have also included my story as a candidly told tale."
Each of the eight chapters in the book has one protagonist whose story reveals at least one aspect of how and why India 'does' fashion and the layers of insightful details surrounding it.
"The cover page explains the motive behind writing this book. The face of the girl on the cover has been powdered to avoid revealing the exact face, which is a true fact about fashion industry that not everything is revealed," Shefalee told PTI.
The author who has been an insider as well as an outsider to the fashion industry asserts that the book is an attempt of gagging the depths of Indian fashion and it should not be perceived as a chronology of history of fashion industry. MORE
Fashion, once considered a field of unequal opportunities for decades has now moved far ahead from being the playground of rich and famous and has become the biggest talk of the middle class right from Nagaland to Punjab, says a new book.
Even though Bollywood is the face of Indian fashion industry yet its alter ego lies in middle class Indian weddings is the essence of "Powder Room - An untold story of Indian Fashion" written by Shefalee Vasudev.
After being a fashion journalist for over a decade Shefali describes her book as "an untold story of Indian fashion because it involves intimate confessions from Fashion industry stalwarts like Tarun Tahilani and Sabyaschi to new models like Harmeet Bajaj. The confessions involved are more of self depreciation".
She adds, "I did not want the readers as well as the people in industry to feel that I presumably became the judge of the industry as I was sitting on the other side. So I have also included my story as a candidly told tale."
Each of the eight chapters in the book has one protagonist whose story reveals at least one aspect of how and why India 'does' fashion and the layers of insightful details surrounding it.
"The cover page explains the motive behind writing this book. The face of the girl on the cover has been powdered to avoid revealing the exact face, which is a true fact about fashion industry that not everything is revealed," Shefalee told PTI.
The author who has been an insider as well as an outsider to the fashion industry asserts that the book is an attempt of gagging the depths of Indian fashion and it should not be perceived as a chronology of history of fashion industry. MORE
Thursday, August 9, 2012
Celebrating Mumbai's fashion week
Celebrating Mumbai's fashion week
India's cultural capital of Mumbai is in the thick of the fashion world with Lakme Fashion Week, wrapping up five days of runway presentations on Tuesday.
It began Friday with a show of budding young designers including Asa Kazingmei and his collection inspired by fabrics from India's northeastern Naga Tribe. Other designers showcased bold cuts and colors, true to what editors, stylists and retailers expect from a place rich in jewel tones and luxe textures.
Krishna Mehta targeted the upcoming wedding season with a mix of traditional and modern bridal wear. While there were a few lehengas and saris in her collection, she also had some modern pieces like a sari kimono with elaborate stitching, and jackets and blouses with lace cutwork.
Shyamal and Bhumika Shodhan dubbed their festive collection Maharaja, paying homage to the grandeur and glory of royalty. The collection harkened back to the Mughal era, which was at its height during the 17th and 18th centuries. The color palette of wine, jade, purple, ivory and gold painted a luxurious story.
Shivan & Narresh offered a swimwear and cruise wear collection inspired by horses, with fabric inspired by the gloss of an equine's skin. The handmade louvered jersey was molded into bikini, dress, gown, sari and shirts as well as the collection's signature sari bikini and the new Kafsuit — a kaftan-inspired swimsuit.
India's cultural capital of Mumbai is in the thick of the fashion world with Lakme Fashion Week, wrapping up five days of runway presentations on Tuesday.
It began Friday with a show of budding young designers including Asa Kazingmei and his collection inspired by fabrics from India's northeastern Naga Tribe. Other designers showcased bold cuts and colors, true to what editors, stylists and retailers expect from a place rich in jewel tones and luxe textures.
Krishna Mehta targeted the upcoming wedding season with a mix of traditional and modern bridal wear. While there were a few lehengas and saris in her collection, she also had some modern pieces like a sari kimono with elaborate stitching, and jackets and blouses with lace cutwork.
Shyamal and Bhumika Shodhan dubbed their festive collection Maharaja, paying homage to the grandeur and glory of royalty. The collection harkened back to the Mughal era, which was at its height during the 17th and 18th centuries. The color palette of wine, jade, purple, ivory and gold painted a luxurious story.
Shivan & Narresh offered a swimwear and cruise wear collection inspired by horses, with fabric inspired by the gloss of an equine's skin. The handmade louvered jersey was molded into bikini, dress, gown, sari and shirts as well as the collection's signature sari bikini and the new Kafsuit — a kaftan-inspired swimsuit.
Wednesday, August 8, 2012
Italian fashion writer Anna Piaggi dies aged 81
Italian fashion writer Anna Piaggi dies aged 81
Italian fashion icon and style journalist Anna Piaggi, who wrote for Vogue Italia and inspired German designer Karl Lagerfeld, died in Milan on Thursday aged 81.
Piaggi, who was famous for lighting up the front rows of fashion shows from Paris to New York with her eccentric style, eye-catching blue hair and theatrical make-up, was credited with shaking up the fashion world.
Lagerfeld, creative director at fashion houses Fendi and Chanel, revered her creations, once writing that "Anna invents fashion. She automatically dresses herself as we will dress ourselves tomorrow."
In 2006, London's Victoria and Albert Museum put on an exhibition of Piaggi's extensive wardrobe collection, including thousands of dresses and wildly patterned tunics that she often wore in her trademark layering style.
Piaggi died at home in the Italian style capital of Milan, Vogue Italia said in a statement on its website. It did not give the cause of her death.
Italian fashion icon and style journalist Anna Piaggi, who wrote for Vogue Italia and inspired German designer Karl Lagerfeld, died in Milan on Thursday aged 81.
Piaggi, who was famous for lighting up the front rows of fashion shows from Paris to New York with her eccentric style, eye-catching blue hair and theatrical make-up, was credited with shaking up the fashion world.
Lagerfeld, creative director at fashion houses Fendi and Chanel, revered her creations, once writing that "Anna invents fashion. She automatically dresses herself as we will dress ourselves tomorrow."
In 2006, London's Victoria and Albert Museum put on an exhibition of Piaggi's extensive wardrobe collection, including thousands of dresses and wildly patterned tunics that she often wore in her trademark layering style.
Piaggi died at home in the Italian style capital of Milan, Vogue Italia said in a statement on its website. It did not give the cause of her death.
Tuesday, August 7, 2012
Olympic flag fashion
Olympic flag fashion
There was no mystery as to which team Varun Pemmaraju was supporting: His American flag was tied around his neck, the Stars and Stripes floating like a cape behind him.
"I was going for the Superman, Captain America-look," said the beaming 19-year-old computer science and chemical engineering student from San Jose, California, as he stood a stone's throw from Olympic Stadium. "I thought America was a little under-represented."
Patriotism and the Olympic Games have long gone together, but gone are the days when one just waved a flag. Now flags are worn.
The fashion flags can be found at Olympic Park and around London as shift dresses and smocks, pants and shorts, hats and shoes, even dangly earrings and bracelets. There's apparently no garment — nor nail polish — that can't be fashioned into something akin to a national banner.
Although the sponsorship police at the International Olympic Committee can stop merchants from using the five Olympic rings, there are no trademark police on flags.
Besides, capitalising on a good fashion idea is not new. In recent years, "fast fashion" has transformed the retail industry, as mainstream companies seize the hottest ideas from the catwalk, copy them as quickly as possible and move them onto the shop floors. Some manufacturers have gotten so fast they can produce wearable creations from factory to store in the same season in which they were created by top designers at Chanel, Ralph Lauren or Dior.
None of these flag fashions are going to give Burberry a run for their money — they are not made to last.
Jayne Ody got her raincoat, which was covered in Union Jacks, from Primark, a British store that specialises in cheap, cheerful fashion. And it was a bargain, at 8 pounds (US$13).
Her friend Ann Wanklyn was wearing two Welsh flags — emblazoned with a dragon — that had been sewn together into a simple shift dress. But Wanklyn is not about to claim she's a fashion princess — Olympic Park is a sporty crowd.
"You won't see anyone here walking around in heels, I can tell you that," Wanklyn said.
Turns out those flags can be handy in this unpredictable British weather. Someone seems to have a concession of selling a plastic variety that doubles as a raincoat. The British flag, as one might expect, seems to be very popular, but so is the tricolour of France and the triangle-cornered ones of the Czech Republic.
And then there are the Dutch. Who needs a flag when your nation is basically a colour — blinding orange? There are orange jackets, overalls, shoes but you almost never see the Dutch flag itself.
The orange also comes in the form of tiny hats — a bargain at 1 pound (US$1.56) each — as worn by three Wagenaar sisters. Sabine Wagenaar, 24, simply laughed when asked about her fashion choice.
"It's a nice little hat," she said giggling. "It's girlie."
Then there are those just trying to buck their athletes up. Hugh Barton, 11, from Brisbane, Australia, was sad that the Aussie swimmers weren't at their best this year. He wore a flag around his neck and held one in his hand for maximum patriotism.
"Australia needs moral support," he said.
Before the games, American athletes were briefed on how to hold the flag should they be lucky enough to win. The US Olympic Committee pointed out a picture of swimmer Missy Franklin displaying the flag properly after winning gold — right hand on stars, left hand on stripes.
Americans have rules outlining the proper way to show respect to the flag and athletes, as ambassadors and representatives of their country, are expected to respect that and do it right. Under federal law, the flag is not dipped to any person or thing, for example.
"The (USOC) take the ambassador programme very seriously," said Bill Mallon, a historian. "They try to avoid the ugly American image by doing proper things at the games and teaching (athletes) the right things to do."
But fans at Olympic Park were wearing the Stars and Stripes were doing so in joy and exuberance — honouring the flag in their own little way.
"It's a way of celebrating all the things that your country is about," said Pemmaraju, the University of California student said. "I know America is not a perfect country ... but it's got me where I am. I'm proud to be an American."
There was no mystery as to which team Varun Pemmaraju was supporting: His American flag was tied around his neck, the Stars and Stripes floating like a cape behind him.
"I was going for the Superman, Captain America-look," said the beaming 19-year-old computer science and chemical engineering student from San Jose, California, as he stood a stone's throw from Olympic Stadium. "I thought America was a little under-represented."
Patriotism and the Olympic Games have long gone together, but gone are the days when one just waved a flag. Now flags are worn.
The fashion flags can be found at Olympic Park and around London as shift dresses and smocks, pants and shorts, hats and shoes, even dangly earrings and bracelets. There's apparently no garment — nor nail polish — that can't be fashioned into something akin to a national banner.
Although the sponsorship police at the International Olympic Committee can stop merchants from using the five Olympic rings, there are no trademark police on flags.
Besides, capitalising on a good fashion idea is not new. In recent years, "fast fashion" has transformed the retail industry, as mainstream companies seize the hottest ideas from the catwalk, copy them as quickly as possible and move them onto the shop floors. Some manufacturers have gotten so fast they can produce wearable creations from factory to store in the same season in which they were created by top designers at Chanel, Ralph Lauren or Dior.
None of these flag fashions are going to give Burberry a run for their money — they are not made to last.
Jayne Ody got her raincoat, which was covered in Union Jacks, from Primark, a British store that specialises in cheap, cheerful fashion. And it was a bargain, at 8 pounds (US$13).
Her friend Ann Wanklyn was wearing two Welsh flags — emblazoned with a dragon — that had been sewn together into a simple shift dress. But Wanklyn is not about to claim she's a fashion princess — Olympic Park is a sporty crowd.
"You won't see anyone here walking around in heels, I can tell you that," Wanklyn said.
Turns out those flags can be handy in this unpredictable British weather. Someone seems to have a concession of selling a plastic variety that doubles as a raincoat. The British flag, as one might expect, seems to be very popular, but so is the tricolour of France and the triangle-cornered ones of the Czech Republic.
And then there are the Dutch. Who needs a flag when your nation is basically a colour — blinding orange? There are orange jackets, overalls, shoes but you almost never see the Dutch flag itself.
The orange also comes in the form of tiny hats — a bargain at 1 pound (US$1.56) each — as worn by three Wagenaar sisters. Sabine Wagenaar, 24, simply laughed when asked about her fashion choice.
"It's a nice little hat," she said giggling. "It's girlie."
Then there are those just trying to buck their athletes up. Hugh Barton, 11, from Brisbane, Australia, was sad that the Aussie swimmers weren't at their best this year. He wore a flag around his neck and held one in his hand for maximum patriotism.
"Australia needs moral support," he said.
Before the games, American athletes were briefed on how to hold the flag should they be lucky enough to win. The US Olympic Committee pointed out a picture of swimmer Missy Franklin displaying the flag properly after winning gold — right hand on stars, left hand on stripes.
Americans have rules outlining the proper way to show respect to the flag and athletes, as ambassadors and representatives of their country, are expected to respect that and do it right. Under federal law, the flag is not dipped to any person or thing, for example.
"The (USOC) take the ambassador programme very seriously," said Bill Mallon, a historian. "They try to avoid the ugly American image by doing proper things at the games and teaching (athletes) the right things to do."
But fans at Olympic Park were wearing the Stars and Stripes were doing so in joy and exuberance — honouring the flag in their own little way.
"It's a way of celebrating all the things that your country is about," said Pemmaraju, the University of California student said. "I know America is not a perfect country ... but it's got me where I am. I'm proud to be an American."
Monday, August 6, 2012
At Lakme Fashion Week newcomers create a buzz
At Lakme Fashion Week newcomers create a buzz
My niece, my show: Goan designer Wendell Rodricks opened and closed his show with niece Tegan, who seemed comfortable taking the lead spot among all the models in the show. Digressing from his usual palette of subtle hues, Wendell's clothes burst with pop hues, even though his silhouettes remained as fluid as ever.
Presenting a mix of menswear and womenswear, Wendell once again put together a show which was applauded both for its aesthetic appeal as wearability quotient. Among others, we spotted Sonali Kulkarni and her husband Nachiket, as well as Arshad Warsi and Maria Goretii.
Festive fervour: Priyadarshini Rao's evening show was high on glamourous attendees as it was on glamourous clothes. Sticking to the winter/festive theme of the week, Priyadarshini popped open a palette of festive hues and textiles, working with golds, reds and beiges. She added to the drama of the show with six strategically placed large mirrors, magnifying the impact of the clothes and the hairstyles many times over.
Offbeat detailing: Inspired by retro fashion ads, Nimish Shah's collection featured feminine clothes with soft constructions. The designer cleverly blended oversized baggy shapes with lean silhouettes, and was applauded for his universally wearable designs suitable for women across categories.
Twilight seduction: Taking the time of twilight as her inspiration, Komal Sood infused her collection with colours, and interesting silhouettes, but chose to dress her showstopper Sidhartha Mallya in conventional black. However, we wonder why Mallya Jr chose to keep a sombre face throughout. A little smile would have done wonders, we think.
An evening in Paris: Stylist turned designer Pernia Qureshi played it safe with her debut collection. The designer used beads and zippers well, adding delicate patches of embroidery on her clothes. However, as expected, the styling was chic, and so was her front row which included friend and producer Rhea Kapoor. But, it was Amy Jackson, her showstopper, who was under maximum scrutiny for her slightly awkward ramp presence.
Pac man package: Remember Pac Man — that addictive computer game we've all played? That's where newbie Yogesh Chaudhary found the calling for his collection. Hinting at American fashion of the 20s, 50s and 80s, the line was full of Pac Man motifs and Pac Man inspired jewellery.
Inspired by Lady Gaga: Pooja Bedi's daughter Aalia met us on Day 1 of the fashion week, and told us that she wasn't really interested in fashion as a career and wanted to become a lawyer instead. However, on Day 2, we saw her transform into a natty fashionista. Shutterbugs went into a frenzy as soon as Aalia walked in with mommy, courtesy her footwear. Flaunting heelless spiked shoes a la Lady Gaga, Aalia towered over many in the front row, and confidently walked her way through the maze of guests. We must say that the girl is taking her lessons well from the fashion week!
My niece, my show: Goan designer Wendell Rodricks opened and closed his show with niece Tegan, who seemed comfortable taking the lead spot among all the models in the show. Digressing from his usual palette of subtle hues, Wendell's clothes burst with pop hues, even though his silhouettes remained as fluid as ever.
Presenting a mix of menswear and womenswear, Wendell once again put together a show which was applauded both for its aesthetic appeal as wearability quotient. Among others, we spotted Sonali Kulkarni and her husband Nachiket, as well as Arshad Warsi and Maria Goretii.
Festive fervour: Priyadarshini Rao's evening show was high on glamourous attendees as it was on glamourous clothes. Sticking to the winter/festive theme of the week, Priyadarshini popped open a palette of festive hues and textiles, working with golds, reds and beiges. She added to the drama of the show with six strategically placed large mirrors, magnifying the impact of the clothes and the hairstyles many times over.
Offbeat detailing: Inspired by retro fashion ads, Nimish Shah's collection featured feminine clothes with soft constructions. The designer cleverly blended oversized baggy shapes with lean silhouettes, and was applauded for his universally wearable designs suitable for women across categories.
Twilight seduction: Taking the time of twilight as her inspiration, Komal Sood infused her collection with colours, and interesting silhouettes, but chose to dress her showstopper Sidhartha Mallya in conventional black. However, we wonder why Mallya Jr chose to keep a sombre face throughout. A little smile would have done wonders, we think.
An evening in Paris: Stylist turned designer Pernia Qureshi played it safe with her debut collection. The designer used beads and zippers well, adding delicate patches of embroidery on her clothes. However, as expected, the styling was chic, and so was her front row which included friend and producer Rhea Kapoor. But, it was Amy Jackson, her showstopper, who was under maximum scrutiny for her slightly awkward ramp presence.
Pac man package: Remember Pac Man — that addictive computer game we've all played? That's where newbie Yogesh Chaudhary found the calling for his collection. Hinting at American fashion of the 20s, 50s and 80s, the line was full of Pac Man motifs and Pac Man inspired jewellery.
Inspired by Lady Gaga: Pooja Bedi's daughter Aalia met us on Day 1 of the fashion week, and told us that she wasn't really interested in fashion as a career and wanted to become a lawyer instead. However, on Day 2, we saw her transform into a natty fashionista. Shutterbugs went into a frenzy as soon as Aalia walked in with mommy, courtesy her footwear. Flaunting heelless spiked shoes a la Lady Gaga, Aalia towered over many in the front row, and confidently walked her way through the maze of guests. We must say that the girl is taking her lessons well from the fashion week!
Friday, August 3, 2012
Gabby Douglas wins gymnastics Olympic gold in historic fashion
Gabby Douglas wins gymnastics Olympic gold in historic fashion
Read more
Gymnastics coach Liang Chow didn’t quite know what to make of Gabby Douglas when she decided to move halfway across the country 20 months ago to train at his gym.
Her body was scrawny, her skills ragged, but she wanted to compete in the 2012 London Olympics.
Chow was skeptical, until he realized that Douglas does everything with 100-volt energy, 100-mph speed and a 100-watt smile. She improved in leaps and bounds, at the same rate she tumbles across a mat.
Douglas’ transformation was complete Thursday, as she reigned over gymnasts who were supposed to be more polished and reliable. Douglas won the most coveted title in her sport, Olympic all-around gold medalist, with four exquisitely error-free routines.
Spectators inside North Greenwich Arena and those watching one of the Olympics’ perennial marquee events got to see that infectious smile, as sparkly as the studs on her lavender leotard.
Douglas, 16, became the first black winner of the Olympic all-around. Her victory, two days after she scored highest for the United States in a gold-medal-winning runaway, marked the first time an American won both the individual and team titles at the same Olympics. She joins Mary Lou Retton, Carly Patterson and Nastia Liukin as the fourth female champion from the United States.
Her life — which will be filled with TV appearances, sponsor queries and perhaps an unlimited supply of cereal with her picture on the boxes — will never be the same.
Douglas, who was expected to play a supporting role to teammate and defending world champion Jordyn Wieber, held off two Russians and teammate Aly Raisman, who placed fourth.
“It just feels amazing,” gushed Douglas, who knows no other way to speak. “All the hard work and dedication pays off. I wasn’t really watching the scores. I was trying to hit my routines and I came out on top. Wow, I’m just so excited.”
Douglas’ score of 62.232 was .259 ahead of Russia’s Victoria Komova, whose teammate Aliya Mustafina placed third. Douglas had the top scores of the night on vault and balance beam.
She put Komova and Mustafina on their heels with her opening Amanar vault, the most difficult in women’s gymnastics, which earned her 15.966 points. She scored 15.733 on her high-altitude uneven bars routine, then 15.500 on her sometimes shaky beam routine.
It came down to floor exercise and a contrast in styles — Komova, the swan, trained in the classic balletic Russian style vs. Douglas, the Tinkerbell of the tumbling mat, performing with ebullient bounce.
The 4-11, 94-pound Douglas needed to play it safe and avoid any deductions. But she went for the win. She kept her second pass in bounds by a couple of inches. Her playful dance moves got the crowd clapping in rhythm. She launched high on her double tuck and stuck the landing.
It was hard not to smile with her, but Komova did not, knowing she needed a 15.359 to supplant Douglas.
Komova gave it a go, with her expressive hands, beautifully arched back, a spin with one leg pulled over her head and a double-pike landing. But, given the mediocre degree of difficulty on her weakest event, she scored 15.100, enough for silver.
She sobbed as she was hugged by Mustafina. As Komova stepped down, Douglas stepped up onto the mat and waved.
During the medal ceremony, Douglas looked like she belonged atop the podium. After The Star-Spangled Banner played, Komova put her medal in her pocket. When asked why, she replied and a translator said, “Is heavy.”
Douglas’ sudden stardom took her mother by surprise.
“We’re somewhere on Pluto right now,” she said. “I’m not usually at a loss for words, but I can’t find one to describe the feeling. Oh, my gosh. I just told Gabby, ‘You’ve been doing this for 10 years, you owe it to yourself to prove it to yourself. You love this sport. Go out and enjoy it.’ ”
Natalie Hawkins had to be convinced when her daughter, at age 14, said she wanted to train under Shawn Johnson’s coach, which required moving from Virginia to West Des Moines, Iowa, and living with the family of another gymnast. Missy Parton became her home-away-from-home mom and 2008 medalist Johnson, working on a comeback, became her gym mom.
Douglas was encouraged beforehand by a series of daily letters written by her family and adopted-family members. Parton assigned Hawkins to write the letter that Douglas would open Thursday.
“I told her to have fun and believe in herself,” Hawkins said. “I’m utterly amazed at what she’s done since I dropped my little girl off in Iowa.”
Read more
Gymnastics coach Liang Chow didn’t quite know what to make of Gabby Douglas when she decided to move halfway across the country 20 months ago to train at his gym.
Her body was scrawny, her skills ragged, but she wanted to compete in the 2012 London Olympics.
Chow was skeptical, until he realized that Douglas does everything with 100-volt energy, 100-mph speed and a 100-watt smile. She improved in leaps and bounds, at the same rate she tumbles across a mat.
Douglas’ transformation was complete Thursday, as she reigned over gymnasts who were supposed to be more polished and reliable. Douglas won the most coveted title in her sport, Olympic all-around gold medalist, with four exquisitely error-free routines.
Spectators inside North Greenwich Arena and those watching one of the Olympics’ perennial marquee events got to see that infectious smile, as sparkly as the studs on her lavender leotard.
Douglas, 16, became the first black winner of the Olympic all-around. Her victory, two days after she scored highest for the United States in a gold-medal-winning runaway, marked the first time an American won both the individual and team titles at the same Olympics. She joins Mary Lou Retton, Carly Patterson and Nastia Liukin as the fourth female champion from the United States.
Her life — which will be filled with TV appearances, sponsor queries and perhaps an unlimited supply of cereal with her picture on the boxes — will never be the same.
Douglas, who was expected to play a supporting role to teammate and defending world champion Jordyn Wieber, held off two Russians and teammate Aly Raisman, who placed fourth.
“It just feels amazing,” gushed Douglas, who knows no other way to speak. “All the hard work and dedication pays off. I wasn’t really watching the scores. I was trying to hit my routines and I came out on top. Wow, I’m just so excited.”
Douglas’ score of 62.232 was .259 ahead of Russia’s Victoria Komova, whose teammate Aliya Mustafina placed third. Douglas had the top scores of the night on vault and balance beam.
She put Komova and Mustafina on their heels with her opening Amanar vault, the most difficult in women’s gymnastics, which earned her 15.966 points. She scored 15.733 on her high-altitude uneven bars routine, then 15.500 on her sometimes shaky beam routine.
It came down to floor exercise and a contrast in styles — Komova, the swan, trained in the classic balletic Russian style vs. Douglas, the Tinkerbell of the tumbling mat, performing with ebullient bounce.
The 4-11, 94-pound Douglas needed to play it safe and avoid any deductions. But she went for the win. She kept her second pass in bounds by a couple of inches. Her playful dance moves got the crowd clapping in rhythm. She launched high on her double tuck and stuck the landing.
It was hard not to smile with her, but Komova did not, knowing she needed a 15.359 to supplant Douglas.
Komova gave it a go, with her expressive hands, beautifully arched back, a spin with one leg pulled over her head and a double-pike landing. But, given the mediocre degree of difficulty on her weakest event, she scored 15.100, enough for silver.
She sobbed as she was hugged by Mustafina. As Komova stepped down, Douglas stepped up onto the mat and waved.
During the medal ceremony, Douglas looked like she belonged atop the podium. After The Star-Spangled Banner played, Komova put her medal in her pocket. When asked why, she replied and a translator said, “Is heavy.”
Douglas’ sudden stardom took her mother by surprise.
“We’re somewhere on Pluto right now,” she said. “I’m not usually at a loss for words, but I can’t find one to describe the feeling. Oh, my gosh. I just told Gabby, ‘You’ve been doing this for 10 years, you owe it to yourself to prove it to yourself. You love this sport. Go out and enjoy it.’ ”
Natalie Hawkins had to be convinced when her daughter, at age 14, said she wanted to train under Shawn Johnson’s coach, which required moving from Virginia to West Des Moines, Iowa, and living with the family of another gymnast. Missy Parton became her home-away-from-home mom and 2008 medalist Johnson, working on a comeback, became her gym mom.
Douglas was encouraged beforehand by a series of daily letters written by her family and adopted-family members. Parton assigned Hawkins to write the letter that Douglas would open Thursday.
“I told her to have fun and believe in herself,” Hawkins said. “I’m utterly amazed at what she’s done since I dropped my little girl off in Iowa.”
Thursday, August 2, 2012
Jessica Biel: Justin has fashion look
Jessica Biel: Justin has fashion look
Jessica Biel regularly seeks fashion advice from Justin Timberlake, who "gives her that look" when something doesn't suit her.
The stylish couple like having an input into each other's wardrobe choices. Jessica has revealed that Justin's advice is invaluable at times, although other times she ignores his opinion.
"We both really love fashion. There are definitely moments where I'll come out in an outfit and he'll give me that look!" she laughed to British newspaper The Sun.
"He'll take me back into the closet and I'll change my shoes and I'm like, 'Yeah, this is way better.' Sometimes I won't change."
Jessica and Justin got engaged in December of last year, and the Hollywood beauty recently revealed that she's not obsessing about her nuptials.
The star has been training for her latest big screen role in Total Recall, and revealed that she isn't thinking about her wedding dress body just yet.
"[The training schedule is] really boring. You feel like you have no life. All you dream about is cake and pasta," she revealed recently.
"The loving of it is also the hating of it. Five or six weeks into the diet and this absolutely crazy training regime which is brutal, you're stronger and you have the utmost energy. You're not having a cocktail at night."
Jessica Biel regularly seeks fashion advice from Justin Timberlake, who "gives her that look" when something doesn't suit her.
The stylish couple like having an input into each other's wardrobe choices. Jessica has revealed that Justin's advice is invaluable at times, although other times she ignores his opinion.
"We both really love fashion. There are definitely moments where I'll come out in an outfit and he'll give me that look!" she laughed to British newspaper The Sun.
"He'll take me back into the closet and I'll change my shoes and I'm like, 'Yeah, this is way better.' Sometimes I won't change."
Jessica and Justin got engaged in December of last year, and the Hollywood beauty recently revealed that she's not obsessing about her nuptials.
The star has been training for her latest big screen role in Total Recall, and revealed that she isn't thinking about her wedding dress body just yet.
"[The training schedule is] really boring. You feel like you have no life. All you dream about is cake and pasta," she revealed recently.
"The loving of it is also the hating of it. Five or six weeks into the diet and this absolutely crazy training regime which is brutal, you're stronger and you have the utmost energy. You're not having a cocktail at night."
Jessica Biel: Justin has fashion look
Jessica Biel: Justin has fashion look
Jessica Biel regularly seeks fashion advice from Justin Timberlake, who "gives her that look" when something doesn't suit her.
The stylish couple like having an input into each other's wardrobe choices. Jessica has revealed that Justin's advice is invaluable at times, although other times she ignores his opinion.
"We both really love fashion. There are definitely moments where I'll come out in an outfit and he'll give me that look!" she laughed to British newspaper The Sun.
"He'll take me back into the closet and I'll change my shoes and I'm like, 'Yeah, this is way better.' Sometimes I won't change."
Jessica and Justin got engaged in December of last year, and the Hollywood beauty recently revealed that she's not obsessing about her nuptials.
The star has been training for her latest big screen role in Total Recall, and revealed that she isn't thinking about her wedding dress body just yet.
"[The training schedule is] really boring. You feel like you have no life. All you dream about is cake and pasta," she revealed recently.
"The loving of it is also the hating of it. Five or six weeks into the diet and this absolutely crazy training regime which is brutal, you're stronger and you have the utmost energy. You're not having a cocktail at night."
Jessica Biel regularly seeks fashion advice from Justin Timberlake, who "gives her that look" when something doesn't suit her.
The stylish couple like having an input into each other's wardrobe choices. Jessica has revealed that Justin's advice is invaluable at times, although other times she ignores his opinion.
"We both really love fashion. There are definitely moments where I'll come out in an outfit and he'll give me that look!" she laughed to British newspaper The Sun.
"He'll take me back into the closet and I'll change my shoes and I'm like, 'Yeah, this is way better.' Sometimes I won't change."
Jessica and Justin got engaged in December of last year, and the Hollywood beauty recently revealed that she's not obsessing about her nuptials.
The star has been training for her latest big screen role in Total Recall, and revealed that she isn't thinking about her wedding dress body just yet.
"[The training schedule is] really boring. You feel like you have no life. All you dream about is cake and pasta," she revealed recently.
"The loving of it is also the hating of it. Five or six weeks into the diet and this absolutely crazy training regime which is brutal, you're stronger and you have the utmost energy. You're not having a cocktail at night."
Wednesday, August 1, 2012
Fashion Week: What it all really means
Fashion Week: What it all really means
There is something disconcerting about discussing a four-day fair of fashion. After what felt like an eternal occurrence carefully arranged to celebrate the state of local fashion on three levels, this year's Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Cape Town came to a close and questions following up were in wonder regarding what would happen next? What becomes of the young designers teeming with inspiration? Was it worth all the relationships formed with corporate structures?
Here is what will happen next:
Having an opportunity to showcase a full collection on the main runway must be the most exciting feeling ever for every designer. After spending months conceptualising a creative process, physically creating garments and presenting one's line for all of 15 minutes, there should be a post-show plan that meets the bottom-line to all this.
A few designers often get invited to have some of their items curated in a showroom where buyers and retail representatives have a first-hand contact with the clothing and establish contact with a grand hope to form a relationship. Some designers are fortunate enough to be able to have grown a financial muscle of their own and are able to trade on their own.
The young ones are equipped.
The great thing about an active industry, is that most young designers have a more than enough go-to sources for inspiration and when allowed get to learn a great deal about creating that much needed balance between creativity and business. One of the very important factors advised at the FT Seminar Series was the need to partake in an internship of sorts or for keen designers to avail themselves for exposure.
"This groundwork has something of an interweave effect," says Gabi Rosenwerth, head designer of the Rosenwerth label. "As much as it is advisable that the younger creative needs to learn proper base elements and receive grooming from reputable brands, legendary designer labels also require newer, well-informed links to keep reinventing their brands and hopefully penetrate newer markets. It's a win-win for both parties".
Fashion goes beyond clothes.
Truth be told; the fashion industry would hardly subsist if creative geniuses were not met with salutation brought in by enthusiastic corporate make-ups and valuable sponsorships. Establishing these partnerships helps strengthen significance respectively within industries. Thus is the case with Africa Fashion International having teamed up with luxury Mercedes-Benz, Carlson Rezidor Hotel Group and the City of Cape Town among many. All these sponsorships share a great love for local fashion and have found a way to form synergies that seem benefit them equally.
Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Cape Town 2012 has met its key objectives which included celebrating City of Cape Town's 10 years long relationship with exhibiting local legends of fashion, providing younger designers with a platform to showcase their creativity and an opportunity to learn great business skills.
There is something disconcerting about discussing a four-day fair of fashion. After what felt like an eternal occurrence carefully arranged to celebrate the state of local fashion on three levels, this year's Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Cape Town came to a close and questions following up were in wonder regarding what would happen next? What becomes of the young designers teeming with inspiration? Was it worth all the relationships formed with corporate structures?
Here is what will happen next:
Having an opportunity to showcase a full collection on the main runway must be the most exciting feeling ever for every designer. After spending months conceptualising a creative process, physically creating garments and presenting one's line for all of 15 minutes, there should be a post-show plan that meets the bottom-line to all this.
A few designers often get invited to have some of their items curated in a showroom where buyers and retail representatives have a first-hand contact with the clothing and establish contact with a grand hope to form a relationship. Some designers are fortunate enough to be able to have grown a financial muscle of their own and are able to trade on their own.
The young ones are equipped.
The great thing about an active industry, is that most young designers have a more than enough go-to sources for inspiration and when allowed get to learn a great deal about creating that much needed balance between creativity and business. One of the very important factors advised at the FT Seminar Series was the need to partake in an internship of sorts or for keen designers to avail themselves for exposure.
"This groundwork has something of an interweave effect," says Gabi Rosenwerth, head designer of the Rosenwerth label. "As much as it is advisable that the younger creative needs to learn proper base elements and receive grooming from reputable brands, legendary designer labels also require newer, well-informed links to keep reinventing their brands and hopefully penetrate newer markets. It's a win-win for both parties".
Fashion goes beyond clothes.
Truth be told; the fashion industry would hardly subsist if creative geniuses were not met with salutation brought in by enthusiastic corporate make-ups and valuable sponsorships. Establishing these partnerships helps strengthen significance respectively within industries. Thus is the case with Africa Fashion International having teamed up with luxury Mercedes-Benz, Carlson Rezidor Hotel Group and the City of Cape Town among many. All these sponsorships share a great love for local fashion and have found a way to form synergies that seem benefit them equally.
Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Cape Town 2012 has met its key objectives which included celebrating City of Cape Town's 10 years long relationship with exhibiting local legends of fashion, providing younger designers with a platform to showcase their creativity and an opportunity to learn great business skills.
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