Friday, December 28, 2012
2012 fashion and style around the globe
London calling
The queen's Diamond Jubilee was a chance to look back at 60 years of colorful suits and hats. And everyone seemed more than eager to hop aboard the royal train, including Pantone, which color-coded her highness' most iconic outfits, and Taschen, which published a coffee table book chronicling the royal family.
Ralph Lauren fumbled with Team USA's Summer Olympics opening and closing ceremony uniforms when it was revealed they were made in China, not America. The stiff, boarding school-style jackets emblazoned with an oversized Ralph Lauren Polo logo, "complimented" by military style berets weren't exactly subtle either. Lauren later promised that the 2014 uniforms will be made in the U.S. (July)
Olympic style
They don't give medals for style at the Olympics, but if they did there were several trends that might have made the podium: Nike debuted new FlyKnit Trainers and Volt sneakers. The lightweight and eco-friendly shoes, in a bold shade of highlighter yellow, turned heads at track and field events and on the medal stand (and were summarily bought up by arm chair athletes at home). The late reggae superstar Bob Marley inspired the Jamaican Olympic team uniforms (a collaborative effort between his fashion designer daughter Cedella Marley and Puma). Stella McCartney designed the host team kit for Great Britain, and her choices had some Brits seeing red thanks to a dearth of that hue in the uniforms. Additionally, athletes from around the world sported patriotic nail art. (July, August)
Grill and bare it
When American swimmer and fashion lover Ryan Lochte won his first gold medal, he stepped up to the podium and gave a big grin — revealing a custom made jewel-encrusted American flag dental grill. The United States looked on, embarrassed. Lochte bared more than that when he was photographed on Vogue's June cover running arm in arm on a beach with fellow Olympians Serena Williams and Hope Solo, all clad in tasteful bathing suits. (June, July)
Mars Rover guy
The frenzy surrounding the historic landing of NASA's Mars rover Curiosity was nearly eclipsed by the instant Internet celebrity of Bobak Ferdowsi, the mohawk-haired flight director at the Jet Propulsion Laboratory in Pasadena. (August)
Not well-suited
When Mitt Romney formally introduced Paul Ryan as his running mate, many fashion pundits were distracted by Ryan's wardrobe for the occasion: an ill-fitting coat, pants that hung baggy at the ankles and no tie. We compared the ensemble to David Byrne's absurdly oversized suit from "Stop Making Sense." The RNC must have hired Ryan a stylist after the event, because later in the campaign Ryan began to look more like a potential candidate for the second- highest office in the land and less like a 14-year-old wearing his dad's clothes. (August)
Red Sole Diaries
A New York Court of Appeals ruled that Christian Louboutin's signature red soles are entitled to limited trademark protection, after the designer sought a preliminary injunction to prevent Yves Saint Laurent from selling similarly styled shoes. The decision covers only shoes with a contrasting red sole and a different color top. The much-publicized case reignited the debate over trademarking fashion designs. (September)
The fashion front
During the heat of the presidential campaign, former Fox News pundit Glenn Beck announced that he was starting his own line of jeans to protest a Levis commercial that he claimed showed support for the Occupy movement. Beck's 1791 Supply & Co. jeans sell for the hardly populist price of $130. Also on the political style front, Macy's received calls from online petitioners to dump Donald Trump — the Donald Trump Signature Collection of business clothes, that is. The gripe was over the billionaire's involvement in the "birther" conspiracy movement and his election night Twitter rant calling for revolution after President Obama was reelected. Macy's representatives later released a statement saying that they'd keep stocking the Trump products as long as customers kept buying them. (October and November)
First fashionistas-in-training
First Lady Michelle Obama has been praised for her chic sense of style, and now her daughters are receiving similar acclaim. First Daughters Sasha (wearing Chris Benz) and Malia Obama (in Gregory Parkinson) garnered particular attention for choosing colorful, full short skirts to celebrate their father's reelection. Meanwhile, HMX, the parent company of President Obama's go-to suit label Hart Schaffner Marx, filed for bankruptcy just a month before the election. By the end of the year, Authentic Brands Group — the company that owns the licensing rights to Marilyn Monroe's likeness — had snapped it up for a reported $72.3 million. (October, November, December)
Thursday, December 27, 2012
Philippine fashion dazzled in 2012
In fashion shows, 2012 produced eagerly anticipated galas, from “veteran first-timers” like JC Buendia and Francis Libiran to tried-and-tested draws like Cary Santiago.
The year 2012 also marked the homecoming show of London-based Filipino designer Lesley Mobo, now the creative director of venerable British ready-to-wear brand Ghost. (Mobo last staged a show in Manila more than four years ago.)
Although Buendia has been designing clothes for more than two decades now, it was only in August that he held his first gala show.
Dubbed “JC Buendia: 25th,” the designer—known for his clean, tailored and feminine lines—channeled looks of such fashion icons as Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy, Grace Kelly, Wallis Simpson and Diana Vreeland.
He was also inspired by such films and TV shows as “Downton Abbey,” “Rear Window,” “Sabrina,” even the Madonna-directed “W.E.”
Influences from his fashion idols such as Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga were also evident in tailored pieces that were either sculptural or fresh takes of wasp-waisted dresses reminiscent of Dior’s “New Look.”
LESLEY Mobo reinvents himself by putting less emphasis on tailored pieces in favor of a boho-inspired collectionmade of various types of lace. Instead of silk chiffon, he used tulle, taffeta, silk gazar, French lace and silk abaca.
Libiran’s turn
It was Libiran’s turn to shine last September with “100, the Francis Libiran Fashion Gala.”
His 70-piece collection was inspired by elements at Manila Hotel, including the hotel’s iconic chandeliers and wrought iron works.
He wove these elements into seven segments that showed his expertise in layering, combining linear patterns and sheer fabrics, cutouts and embroidery.
Each segment’s color scheme was dictated by his inspiration. For the fourth segment, which Libiran dubbed the mother-of-pearl collection, he used graduating shades from pink to old rose, magenta to grape, following colors and patterns found in the Maynila ballroom.
The designer combined materials such as piña, both plain and embroidered, tulle and silk organdy. Some gowns had mother-of-pearl embellishments.
Santiago’s collection
After featuring such celebrated Middle East-based Filipino talents as Furne One and Michael Cinco, the annual Red Charity Gala produced by Kaye Tinga and Inquirer Lifestyle’s Tessa Prieto-Valdes lived up to expectations by featuring Cebu’s Cary Santiago.
JC Buendia updates Christian Dior’s “New Look.”
Like One and Cinco, Santiago gained experience in the Middle East. But unlike the two, Santiago opted to come home years ago to cater to a growing Cebu clientele.
Comparisons were thus in order, and Santiago more than held his own with a 35-piece origami-inspired collection.
He had signature techniques such as the wrought-iron-like rococo metalwork, and generated surprises to thrill guests, many of whom were his loyal clients.
Mobo gala
Mobo ended October with a bang. As the first featured designer in the Colours Gala, another fashion show for a cause produced by Tinga, Mobo collaborated with leading stage talents, including fashion director Ariel Lozada, to turn the huge Arena in Pasay City into a venue for a formal dinner-slash-fashion show.
Everything about the show, from the venue to Mobo’s unorthodox collection, could be summed up in one word: reinvention.
Downplaying his tailoring skills and preference for masculine fabric—Mobo pulled off the evening’s biggest surprise.
As if all that layering and juxtaposition of textures weren’t enough, he made his pieces more interesting by incorporating strategic and figure-flattering ruffles, ruches, drapes, tiers and pleats. His sense of proportion showed even through the layering.
Peralta’s Filipiniana
Although Frederick Peralta’s June show wasn’t as big and as celebrated as those of his colleagues, it was equally noteworthy for its attempt to combine fashion with art.
In “Artes,” Peralta and painter Dominic Rubio drew inspiration from each other’s works in a rare art exhibit-fashion show. In their different mediums, the two artists share one thing: a love of elaborate, Filipiniana-inspired fashion that harks back to the colonial era.
While Rubio expresses this fascination on canvas with his signature elongated human figures in intricate native finery, Peralta has live models in heavily beaded, embroidered, tiered and layered creations.
Peralta had ternos, stylized Maria Clara dresses and barongs made of piña, lace, cotton, tulle and Issey Miyake-inspired crinkled silk.
Two big shows
Inquirer Lifestyle and Look Magazine staged two shows: “Face-Off Filipino Bridal Collection 2012” and Look of Style “Most Promising Designer” Awards.
ROLAND Alzate fashions a figure-flattering two-piece ensemble with plastic overlay.
Bridal gowns that were equally elegant and stylish on the aisles as they were on the red carpet were foremost on the minds of 40 designers in this year’s biggest fashion show of its kind.
Leading “Face-Off” were veterans Auggie Cordero, Lulu Tan-Gan, Nolie Hans, Philip Rodriguez, Mike dela Rosa, Efren Ocampo, Loretto Popioco and Gregg Centeno.
Joining them were Randy Ortiz, Rajo Laurel, Cary Santiago, Ivar Aseron, Joey Samson, Noel Crisostomo, Ronaldo Arnaldo, James Reyes, Hindy Webber-Tantoco, Rhett Eala, Jun Escario, JC Buendia, Yvonne Quisumbing, Vic Barba, Patrice Ramos-Diaz, Arcy Gayatin, Oj Hofer, Tonichi Nocom and Dennis Lustico.
The new generation of designers held their own: Pablo Cabahug, Veejay Floresca, Jerome Lorico, Joel Escober, Jerome Salaya Ang, Kristel Yulo, Chris Diaz, Martin Bautista, Sassa Jimenez, Vania Romoff and Eric de los Santos.
Best of the newbies
Before the year ended, young designer Roland Alzate, 27, bested nine other newbies to win the Look of Style Awards in November. As part of his prize, Alzate will receive an all-expense-paid trip to London sponsored by the British Council to attend a one-week fashion design course at the prestigious Central Saint Martins.
Alzate presented short, fitted dresses with three distinct looks. His strongest piece was a cream and pink number made of piña and rayon following Aklan’s ringge weaving technique.
Details were confined to the dress’ lower half, which echoed the look of woven solihiya. Unlike the bottom part, which was made of piña and rayon, the top part was made from recycled jusi from an old wedding gown.”
This year’s finalists from Manila were Vania Romoff, Renan Pacson and Roxanne Hoey. Hanz Coquilla, Rey Villegas and Mike Yapching represented Cebu, while Jun Artajo, Ivan Raborar and Joao Tarepe represented Davao.
Wednesday, December 26, 2012
New Year's Eve Fashion Under $100
New Year's Eve is less than one week away but it's not too late to pull together your dream outfit, says Lori Bergamotto, contributing style editor of Lucky magazine.
The even better news is that you can ring in 2013 looking like a million bucks without breaking the bank. Bergamotto visited " Good Morning America" today to show us the best New Year's Eve looks, all for $100 or less.
Tuesday, December 25, 2012
Lakme Fashion Week to showcase Gaurang collections
The upcoming Lakme Fashion Week is to showcase the collections of fashion designer Gaurang.
Gaurang is to present a collection of very old traditional designs of kanjevarams with kalamkaris at the Indian Textile Day which is to be held in Mumbai on August 5.
So far, the designer has only showcased spring summer collections where he used mostly khadis and kotas in whites. Well-known actress Kiron Kher has agreed to be the show-stopper for the designer at the fashion event.
Gaurang says the collections for the winter season will bring back the classic 1950 and 1960 look. His designs will highlight heavy kanjeevarams instilled with classic kalamkaris.
The five-day fashion extravaganza starts in Mumbai on August 3. Gaurang is to showcase 19 of his classic hand-woven collections.
Gaurang is the only Indian designer this season, who was invited to showcase his designs at the Lavera Showfloor at Kosmos on July 5, 2012 during the Berlin Fashion Week.
Sunday, December 23, 2012
TOP 25: CELEBRITY FASHION HEROES OF 2012
We tried to do a Top 10 Celebrity Fashion Heroes of 2012. Then a top 12, then a 15, followed by a 20...
We've just loved so many wardrobes this year!
But here it is, the official list of our favourite fashion players over the last 12 months, whittled down to an almost concise top 25.
Deciding was tough! With Kate Middleton, Kristen Stewart, Diane Kruger, Beyoncé, Anne Hathaway, Nicole Scheringer and loads more having quite the stylish run, there have been debates, squabbles and stand-offs galore while trying to put all these fashion-clad ladies into some sort of order.
Friday, December 21, 2012
Darwin the Ikea Monkey Among 2012 Highlights of Fashion
Darwin, the rhesus macaque monkey who made global headlines when he was photographed wearing a shearling coat outside of an Ikea in Canada earlier this month, has been recognized as one of the year's highlights of fashion.
In a review of the top 10 fashion highlights of 2012 published on Tuesday by The Guardian Newspaper, fashion writer Lauren Cochrane named the rise in popularity of the midriff, the growing demand for high fashion in China and older models on the high-fashion catwalk as standouts of the year.
And then, there were the animals. She acknowledged that the year had featured notable celebrity pets, including designer Karl Lagerfeld's pampered cat, Choupette, and reality TV star Kim Kardashian's late cat, Mercy.
"And yet they were all trumped by Darwin, the monkey who wandered into a Canadian branch of Ikea in a very smart sheepskin coat, instantly stealing the crown for most fashionable pet. Animals really do the funniest things," Cochrane wrote.
MORE: Coat-Wearing Monkey Captured in Ikea Parking Lot
Darwin captured the world's attention when he escaped from his owner's car while she shopped at Ikea in Toronto on Dec. 9. Amazed shoppers spotted the diaper-and-coat-clad animal and took pictures.
The store's staffers cornered the animal until officials from the city's Animal Services Department arrived on the scene and took the tiny, 7-month-old primate to a sanctuary, where he'll remain indefinitely.
His owner, Yasmin Nakhuda, staged a protest on Wednesday in a bid to get Darwin - her "child," she said - returned to her.
Thursday, December 20, 2012
Fashion merry-go-round brings Paris new faces for 2013
Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga: three top Paris fashion houses kick off 2013 with a new designer at their helm. What better way to whet the appetite of fashionistas and keep sales ticking over?
"There comes a point when a brand needs to renew itself," said Serge Carreira, a luxury industry expert and professor at Sciences Po university.
Change can come about involuntarily--as in the case of John Galliano, sacked by Dior over a racist outburst in February 2011 and succeeded last spring by the Belgian minimalist Raf Simons.
Or it can be deliberate, as at Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga, where Hedi Slimane and Alexander Wang were named to replace the outgoing designers Stefano Pilato and Nicolas Ghesquiere respectively.
"Taking on a new designer has become the new way for brands to whip up consumer appetite," said luxury industry consultant Jean-Jacques Picart.
For the fashion world, this much change in one year spells the end of a cycle and the start of a new one, as seen in the early 2000s with the arrival of Slimane at Dior Homme, and Tom Ford at Saint Laurent, Picart said.
Ghesquiere spent 15 years at Balenciaga, as did Galliano at Dior, while Pilati was at YSL for 12 years in total, starting under Ford, said Pamela Golbin, curator at the Paris museum of decorative arts.
Long enough for the industry to change, and the job of designer too.
"The number of collections has gone from four to eight, 12 or more if you include capsule collections," she said.
Brands increasingly look to designers to act as their public face, opening stores and attending galas.
Couturiers have to sell clothes
Golbin captures the outlook in today's fashion industry with a quote from the late French designer Madeleine Vionnet:
"'Artists are here to make us dream--couturiers have to sell clothes, or they go out of business.'"
"Today it's no longer enough to be able to design a dress," Carreira said. "Having a strong identity and a distinctive product are the keys to success."
At a time when luxury houses are looking to shore up their prospects for future growth, they need to strike a balancing act between creativity and business imperatives.
"And history tells us that it pays to be bold," Carreira said. "If you ask talented creatives to produce standardised products, there is no reason it should work."
Consumers have changed, too, in the past 15 years.
The industry is now addressing switched-on customers who are far from the fashion novices of the 1990s. Today's clients go back and forth between big and niche brands and more or less expensive offerings.
This spring will bring what is widely awaited as Slimane's first "real" shows for Yves Saint Laurent, after last October's spring-summer collection by the cult designer seen as a homage to the house's late founder.
Dior's new designer Simons has already made a mark in Paris with two collections, one couture and one ready-to-wear, that reworked the house's iconic nipped-waist silhouette with a clean-lined, contemporary twist.
And Wang, the darling of the New York fashion scene, will be taking his first steps at Balenciaga at the autumn-winter ready-to-wear shows this spring.
At 28, Wang is already a seasoned businessman, at the helm of an own-name fashion house that has been pushing into Asia, where the Taiwanese-American designer has his family roots.
His arrival at Balenciaga may or may not herald a more aggressive market strategy, but whatever direction the house takes, for Picart, Wang's appointment "seals the arrival of a new generation" of designers at the high table of fashion -- in the style capital of the world.
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