Top Fashion Editor Declares The End Of 'Slut Clothes'

T Magazine editor Deborah Needleman thinks that women will stop wearing sexy clothes this summer.
"Say so long to slut clothes," Needleman tweeted, linking to an article about how modest clothes were coming back in fashion.

That article, by Suzy Menkes, showcases a collection by Valentino that looks more grandma than couture. The Valentino pieces are long, loose-fitting frocks that cover the models from their necks to their ankles.
" Out of Italy has come a fashion miracle: a look that suddenly puts 'la moda da puttana' ('hooker chic') right out of vogue," Menkes wrote. She proclaimed that the Valentino collection will set the tone for the entire fashion industry.

"The word that best describes their clothes is so ancient and out of fashion that it requires a good dust off: modesty," Menkes said reverently.

But Faran Krentcil at Fashionista  wrote that seeing the tweet and story " feels like I’ve been stabbed in the gut with my own stiletto."

Krentcil argues that most women are too poor or curvy to wear Valentino's designs, and that T's commentary creates an unreasonable standard.

"How about we get over this idea that the only way to look demure, or intelligent, or elegant, or anything other than 'a slut,' is by reaching for a caftan?" Krentcil implores.
The T article isn't the first to encourage wardrobe austerity in recent weeks.  Victoria's Secret came under fire last week after zealous parents demanded the retailer pull its racy Pink line targeted toward teens.

A Disguise for When You Want to Be Seen

No one saw it coming. The men’s fashion collection that Dries Van Noten showed for spring was a cavalcade of camouflage.

He paired it with a clashing palette of white and safety orange that would make a crossing guard proud. The various camouflages might have been cribbed from the Army, but the patterns and fine tailoring were far from military issue.

“I sought to use camouflage as any other print or motif,” Mr. Van Noten said, “to demilitarize it and use it as a stripe, a floral or a paisley might be used. It was purely decorative and in no way political.”

But how camo can you go?

Pretty far, actually. Mr. Van Noten’s impressive show was just the tip of a brown and dark-green mottled iceberg. There were spring collections with heavy camouflage slants from Comme des Garçons, Kenzo and Valentino. Then came the men’s fall collections, the aggressive pattern marching across Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown, Patrik Ervell, Phillip Lim and DKNY before crossing the gender border in women’s shows like Christopher Kane, Michael Kors, Rebecca Minkoff and L.A.M.B.

The designers, a disparate lot, shared one sentiment with Mr. Van Noten. Their inspirations varied but, at least consciously, the messages were apolitical. Nary a desert pattern appeared to comment on 12 years of combat. Nor, apparently, were any of the designers inspired by reality television shows like “Doomsday Preppers.”

“My goal was to make a camo that was beautiful and romantic,” said Patrik Ervell, who created original shadowy photo-realistic prints. For his men’s line, he used ivy and bark; for women, closed night flowers.

Mark McNairy opened his spring show with an overcoat in a pattern of daisies overlaid on a bed of camouflage.

“It started with G.I. Joe as a kid,” said Mr. McNairy, who acknowledges an obsession with military camo. “Certain ones are like art. When I go to another country, I go to military surplus stores and buy camos from all over the world. The colors and patterns are just beautiful.”

Mr. McNairy was clear that it is not just any pattern that piques his interest. “I don’t care for hunting camo,” he said. “Tree-bark camo doesn’t appeal to me at all.”

Military is a perennial go-to theme in men’s wear, but the utilitarian aspects of the design are usually emphasized on the fashion runways; camo patterns have been predominantly a street and skate-wear staple.

“Camo is the leopard print of men’s wear,” said Nick Wooster, the recently named creative director for men’s clothing at J. C. Penney, who owns camouflage swim trunks, tailored shirts and an iPhone cover, among other items. “It’s a safe way for a guy to feel a little bit radical without actually being radical.”

As for the new patterns on the runways, Mr. Wooster is scarcely surprised. “The unorthodox use of something is what fashion is all about,” he said.

Most of the women’s wear interpretations were brash “kooky camo,” halogen bursts of acid color that erase the very purpose of camouflage: that the wearer is not to be seen. Anti-camo, if you will.

One impetus seemed to be the 1980s, but not Rambo. Warhol’s late-period camouflage paintings and self-portraits, and Stephen Sprouse’s neon 1980s collections riffing on the artist’s series, set the tone.

“The collection was based off the electric colors you find in the city,” Mr. Kors said. “Taxicab yellow and neon orange. The bright takes on camo were a wink to ’80s nights at the Mudd Club, where you definitely wanted to be noticed. Camo is about blending in, but this is fashion, after all.”

Mr. Kors, whose collection included items like a royal blue felted wool camo coat and a matching jacquard camo jacket and pants, was also influenced by Hurricane Sandy. “We were surrounded by a spirit of survival,” he said, “and camouflage is a hallmark of that.”

Camo has its practical merits, like disguising stains and allowing you to stealthily lie in wait for your enemies. There is also its paradoxical handiness: it goes with nothing, so therefore it goes with everything. But it can lead to an unsettling confusion when encountered outside of an urban center.

On a recent trip to Kentucky, I wore a vintage Army camouflage coat. I fielded the question, “What do you hunt?” several times. Then, in the airport connecting to my next flight, I was surrounded by four ladies of a certain age who profusely thanked me. One even hugged me. Confused, I asked if it was because I sat in the exit row. She responded, “For putting your life on the line for our country,” and tapped the “Airborne” patch on my sleeve.

Fashion week in O.C. keeps the focus close to home

The organizers and sponsors are understandably excited. They've put a lot of work into each night's doings, and they believe in supporting emerging fashion talent, says Kathryn Marino owner of HauteOC, a main sponsor and organizer of OCFW, which is the creation of the Orange County Fashion Association.

"After weeks of working with this group, I recognized and experienced first-hand some of the barriers that emerging designers face just to create a line, brand it and build it like a business. It's not something that can be completely achieved through a vocational school, networking events or a single prize scholarship fund," Marino said. "It takes perseverance through rejection, guidance, resources (and) corporate programs long after graduate schools. I have really been humbled by the experience. Recognizing that this group had gone through a lot just to give designers a chance, it hasn't been easy, and they've done so with a humble spirit."

But, I wondered, what would it take for Orange County Fashion week to be uttered in the same breath with Paris, Milan and New York?

Move to Paris, Milan or New York, says Marshall Cohen, chief industry analyst for the NPD Group.

"To be successful outside of New York, Paris or Milan, it's going to be about showcasing product on a local level; see what makes these lines special; get (local people) interested in fashion and to have an understanding what it would take to make this market different," he said. "Otherwise, it becomes no different than a mall fashion show."

Cohen suggests there is a market in Orange County and the region (Los Angeles' fashion week, still struggling to reach legitimacy, took place last week) because of the large apparel industry here. But he says a so-called fashion week must "go beyond surf and denim, beyond reaching the local consumer; it's reaching the fashionista at all levels."

Michelle Tyree, editor/creator of Fashion Trends Daily, a fashion and style website, agrees – somewhat – with Cohen.

"These areas make the mistake of having a 'fashion week' – it's not going to happen," Tyree said, explaining that the people you would want sitting in the front row at a fashion week – high-powered magazine editors and buyers, as well as celebrities – are all booked for the established fashion events. "The editors are not going to go to Los Angeles" or Orange County, she said.

But if organizers targeted consumer fashion instead of couture or designer ready-to-wear, they could be successful.

"The relevance is here (in Orange County) for contemporary or for surf, but they need to be smart about what they want that time to be, what they are trying to highlight. They should be focused on key industries here."

But OCFW – with its mix of local designers and relative unknowns from elsewhere – seems to be aiming for a charmed intersection of high fashion, avant-garde and consumer-friendly.

From the opening day accessories and jewelry event featuring several Orange County-based designers, to Wednesday night's menswear, race wear and tech-wear focus at Fisker of Orange County in Irvine, to Sunday's kids-wear runway in Laguna, there is something for the consumer.

Still, the final nights' lineups aim for that higher style profile the experts say is hard to hit. Thursday OCFW will present "Runway Expose" – emerging and established ready-to-wear designers; Friday features a late night "Avant Garde" designer show (during which models will appear on a glass catwalk at AnQi by Crustacean at South Coast Plaza) and Saturday's theme is "Haute Couture" Laguna Beach.

With these shows, Marino says, OCFA is staying true to its mission, which is "giving designers a chance and shining a spotlight on fashion in Orange County to grow into a business that can stimulate jobs in the local economy if they continue their retail work here."

W Hotels Worldwide Sends CFDA {FASHION INCUBATOR} Designers on Fashion-Focused Inspiration Trips Around the World

W Hotels Worldwide and the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) today announced the second phase of their multi-layered partnership as they unveiled the weeklong trips on which the CFDA {FASHION INCUBATOR} designers will embark in order to seek inspiration for their upcoming collections. The dynamic group, which includes designers from fashion and accessories brands Ari Dein, Burkman Bros., Daniel Vosovic, Emanuela Duca, Isaora, Jonathan Simkai, Reece Hudson, NUMBER:Lab, Timo Weiland and WHIT, will draw creativity for their Spring 2014 collections from the vibrant destinations and cutting-edge W Hotels they visit around the world.

“W Hotels is proud to be a partner of the CFDA {FASHION INCUBATOR} program, and together, we have created a unique global platform to elevate exposure and drive business for these rising fashion stars,” said Carlos Becil, Vice President of Brand Management, Starwood’s Luxury and Design Brands, North America. “In addition to the designer showcases at W Hotels around the country, these ten inspiration trips allow each designer to leave home and soak in the energy, creativity, and spirit of dynamic destinations around the world to inspire their next collection.”

Passports and Sketchbooks in Hand, Designers Jet Off in Search of Fashion Inspiration
American menswear design brand Burkman Bros. and womenswear designer Jonathan Simkhai will separately travel to the newly opened W Bangkok, set in the pulsating heart of the city near glittering temples and spicy street markets. Founded by brothers Ben and Doug Burkman, the contemporary menswear collection Burkman Bros. is heavily influenced by travel and incorporates prints and fabric treatments from countries around the world. Jonathan Simkhai offers sophisticated dressing for the modern, cosmopolitan woman, bringing forth classic predominantly menswear codes translated into sexy and feminine silhouettes
Emanuela Duca, an award-winning jewelry designer, will travel to W Doha Hotel & Residences where sand dunes soar next to towering skyscrapers. A rapidly evolving destination, Doha offers juxtaposition of old and new with its historic forts and camel racing, ancient souks and luxury shopping, and old Shisha cafes and modern cuisines. Originally from Rome, Duca, whose designs are inspired by the marriage of movement and sculpture, creates earth-bound, highly textured surfaces, evocative of volcanic ash and ancient ruins of her native city.

Womenswear designer Daniel Vosovic and Reece Solomon, of the designer handbag collection Reece Hudson, will each travel to W Istanbul, located in the center of the historic Akaretler Row Houses. Vosovic’s collections embody a modern signature style, which caters to those who appreciate an easy sophistication. The Reece Hudson collection, made in Italy, aims to bridge the gap between luxury products and street style through strong design sensibilities mixed with the highest quality materials and craftsmanship
Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein, the designers behind Timo Weiland, and Whitney Pozgay, the designer of contemporary women’s collection WHIT, will separately travel to W Retreat & Spa Bali – Seminyak, set on one of Bali’s most famous beaches. Timo Weiland reflects the designers’ personal aesthetic, sensibilities and broader desire to spur a return to the art of dressing. WHIT specializes in beautiful modern clothing with a fun whimsical twist. Her silhouettes celebrate color and are made to mix and match to incorporate your personal style.

Lingerie designer Arielle Shapiro, whose Ari Dein brand is largely inspired by boutique hotel living and art deco style, will travel to W St. Petersburg, where Russian tradition is fused with Antonio Citterio’s avant-garde décor. Architectural details and exceptional tailoring contribute to Ari Dein, a line that is unique, nostalgic and versatile.

Ricky Hendry and Marc Daniels of ISAORA will take to the road in search of adventure on America’s West Coast, visiting three of the W brand’s newly renovated hotels: W Seattle, W San Francisco and W San Diego. Covering almost 3,000 miles, they will take in everything the left coast has to offer— from the surf, to the cities, to the snow, to the desert— meeting with like-minded innovators and inspiring creatives along the way who share their passion for design driven excellence.

Finally, sportswear label NUMBER:Lab, founded by established architect Luis Fernandez and serial entrepreneur Greg Lawrance, will travel to W Barcelona, a skyline icon designed by renowned architect Ricardo Bofill. Anchored by a defined aesthetic and vision, NUMBER:Lab offers a collection of essentials for the athletic side of the discerning man.

“One of the interesting aspects of our partnership with W Hotels is how the brand can help to create global exposure for our {FASHION INCUBATOR} designers,” said Steven Kolb, Chief Executive Officer of the CFDA. “We thank W Hotels for sending our designers on these incredible inspiration trips and adding this unique layer to the {FASHION INCUBATOR} program.
”
This past September, W Hotels and the CFDA announced a partnership that will bring {FASHION INCUBATOR} designers out of New York City and into markets that are important to growing their businesses, a first such opportunity for the {FASHION INCUBATOR} program. In addition to the Inspiration Trips, the partnership will travel {FASHION INCUBATOR} designers to W Hotels around the country for fashion showcases and special events, the first of which took place this past December at W Atlanta – Buckhead with designers Burkman Bros., Daniel Vosovic, Emanuela Duca and WHIT. W Dallas will host the second {FASHION INCUBATOR} showcase later this spring.

Since its inception in New York City in 1998, W Hotels has identified fashion, a direct extension of design, as one of its key passions to appeal to its jet set guests, who are always looking for what’s new and next. As the reach of W Hotels has expanded globally, it has become a more active participant in its passions of design, fashion and music, which has enabled the W brand to champion emerging talent around the world.

This Spring, The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto Is What's in Fashion

From March 18-22, 2013, the eyes of the fashion world will be focused on the sparkling jewel of Ontario as Toronto celebrates World MasterCard Fashion Week Toronto 2013. As the official hotel of Fashion Week, The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto is pleased to offer exclusive events, specials, and savings for its guests.

Fashionistas from around the globe can stay in style with The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto's World MasterCard Fashion Week Experience. Created especially for Fashion Week, this exclusive hotel package includes accommodations in a luxurious Corner Suite overlooking the runway at David Pecaut Square, a one-of-a-kind VIP hair and makeup experience, tickets to two designer shows nightly, access to the Sponsor Lounge and the services of the Ritz-Carlton Club Level, all from just $925 CDN/night* through March 22, 2013.

After the show, guests are invited to see and be seen at the official World MasterCard Fashion Week Lounge at DEQ, conveniently located at The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto. There, hotel guests can relax fireside with a fashion-inspired cocktail like the Tanqueray-based Fashionista or the strawberry-infused Prêt-à-Porter. They can also refuel with a selection of the city's most stylish snacks or let loose and dance the night away with DEQ's in-house DJ until 1AM.

If the excitement of Fashion Week becomes too much to handle, guests are also invited to wind down and relax with the designer treatment at Spa MyBlend by Clarins at The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto. This first-class, 23,000 square-foot spa includes exclusive, fashion-forward experiences like the Runway Recharger package, Jet Lag Reviver and the Paparazzi Polish.

Ideal for business or leisure stays, this luxury Toronto hotel's premium downtown location puts it just steps away from world-class theatre experiences, iconic landmarks like the CN Tower and the Hockey Hall of Fame, cultural attractions such as the Art Gallery of Ontario and the Royal Ontario Museum, and specialty events including Fashion Week.

Rate is per room/per night, based on double occupancy, exclusive of taxes, gratuities, fees and other charges; does not apply to groups; cannot be combined with any other offer and is not applicable for Rewards redemption. Advanced reservations are required. Hotel suite upgrade available for an additional cost. Offer is subject to availability. No credit back if inclusions are unused.

About The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto
Among Toronto luxury hotels downtown, there is only one Ritz-Carlton. As one of Toronto's newest luxury hotel, The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto welcomes hotel guests to the heart of the city's bustling financial and performing arts districts. Located across from Roy Thompson Hall and only steps from the Toronto International Film Festival Bell Lightbox, The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto features 267 elegantly appointed guest rooms and suites that offer magnificent city or lake views from floor to ceiling windows.

Along with its legendary service, luxury amenities and offerings include North America's only Spa MyBlend by Clarins, the spacious  outdoor terrace at DEQ Lounge, the bespoke cocktails of Ritz Bar, signature Ritz-Carlton Club Level service (with complimentary culinary offerings and alcoholic beverages) and the impeccable dining experience of TOCA restaurant, a top choice among downtown Toronto restaurants.

Combining guestroom comfort, unmatched amenities, business guest convenience and world-class dining experiences, this downtown Toronto hotel consistently offers uniquely enjoyable experiences with every stay.
The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C. of Chevy Chase, Md., currently operates 82 hotels in the Americas, Europe, Asia, the Middle East, Africa, and the Caribbean. More than 30 hotel and residential projects are under development around the globe. The Ritz-Carlton is the only service company to have twice earned the prestigious Malcolm Baldrige National Quality Award which recognizes outstanding customer service. For more information, or reservations, contact a travel professional, call toll free in the U.S. 1-800-241-3333, or visit the company website at www.ritzcarlton.com. The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C. is a wholly owned subsidiary of Marriott International, Inc.

Pop Music Sensation Kaya Jones to Launch Hollywood Doll Fashion Line at Style Fashion Week L.A.

Kaya Jones, best known as one of the lead singers for popular girl band The Pussycat Dolls, will be launching her Hollywood Doll fashion line at Style Fashion Week L.A., held March 11-15 in Los Angeles.

The Hollywood Doll fashion collection was inspired by Jones’ belief that girls should be allowed to be girls and not forced to grow up too fast. Hollywood Doll encourages girls to show their “inner diva” and express themselves by what they wear and giving them a look that is fun, fresh, whimsical and bold with lots of color and energy to create an edgy fairytale-like feel.

The Hollywood Doll fashion show will be held on Wednesday, March 13 at 6:30 p.m. at the historic Vibiana Cathedral at 214 South Main Street, Los Angeles. Jones will be giving a special live performance just prior to the start of her show. The show is open to registered buyers and media.

Jones designed the collection with noted fashion designer and stylist Traver Rains, who co-founded the fashion label Heatherette and has been a judge on both “America’s Next Top Model” and “Project Runway.” Rains has dressed celebrities including Madonna, Gwen Stefani, Britney Spears, Mariah Carey and dozens of others. He has appeared as a fashion correspondent on MTV, E!, CNN and The Today Show.

“I wanted to create a look that would inspire young girls about individuality and freedom of expression in a way that would be appealing to them and their parents,” said Jones. “A lot of what is designed for young girls today lacks a sense of fun and whimsy, and I’m hoping to bring that back because I think it builds self-esteem and confidence and provides a release for many of the pressures faced by young girls in today’s world.”

The Hollywood Doll brand will also include accessories, beauty products and a collection of dolls that will wear replicas of apparel from the fashion line.

Style Fashion Week L.A. has made a global impact on the fashion scene by giving Los Angeles-based designers a world-class platform to showcase their collections. SFW represents the diverse culture that embodies the people of Los Angeles, making the City of Angels a fashion hub and being a leader in the world’s fashion community. More information is available at StyleFashionWeek.com.

Kaya Jones was a lead singer for The Pussycat Dolls, which was one of the most popular girl groups in history having sold more than 15 million albums and 40 million singles worldwide making them one of the most recognizable and bestselling music brands of the decade. Since leaving the group, Jones has brought her own sound to the masses and developed her career as a solo artist. Her solo hit singles include “Hollywood Doll” and “Take It Off,” both of which became top dance songs throughout the world. More information is available at KayaJones.com.

Macy’s Returns to NBC’s Fashion Star for Second Season, Premiering Tomorrow

Macy’s (NYSE:M) is back for the second season of NBC’s “Fashion Star,” allowing the retailer to once again bring exclusive merchandise directly from the television to its eagerly awaiting fans at home. New this season, shoppers can go online at macys.com/fashionstar to purchase winning items from their favorite designer as soon as it happens during each episode. Visitors to the site can also enter to win a shopping spree with Macy’s buyer Caprice Willard. “Fashion Star” Season Two features returning celebrity mentors Jessica Simpson, Nicole Richie and John Varvatos, alongside new host Louise Roe, and returns to NBC tomorrow night at 8 p.m./7c.

“The first season of ‘Fashion Star’ offered a unique opportunity for Macy’s to reinforce our credentials in identifying, nurturing and delivering great talent as part of a groundbreaking television concept for a national audience,” said Martine Reardon, Macy’s chief marketing officer. “Our customers responded and we’re thrilled to join again for Season Two, offering Caprice’s pick for winning designs in real-time during each episode.”

NBC’s “Fashion Star,” the hit reality show that follows aspiring designers as they compete to sell their creations to America’s top buyers, including Macy’s own Caprice Willard, returns for season two on Friday, March 8 (check local listings). During each episode, designs bought by Willard will be available on macys.com/fashionstar in real-time as they are revealed during the broadcast, building momentum and excitement around the show and providing instant gratification for viewers.

Shop Like A Star
This season, “Fashion Star” fans can “Shop Like a Star,” by entering for a chance to win a trip to Los Angeles and a $1,000 Macy’s shopping spree with Caprice Willard by entering online at macys.com/fashionstar, via QR Code or texting “fashionstar” to 62297. (For details, see official rules posted at macys.com/fashionstar.)